Everything Happening At Paris Men’s SS27

Bienvenue! to the men’s 2026 Paris Fashion Week roundup. Find daily updates here on everything you need to know about shows, presentations and our favourite pieces. Despite scorching heat and early, early mornings, this season isn’t fall short. From sparkly Dior-party boys, Maddona sharing a light with Charli xcx and Rick Owens fountain-ery, there’s a lot to marvel at. Otto Johnson

Saint Laurent

WHAT WE SAW: Held inside the Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection, Anthony Vaccarello staged his SS27 Saint Laurent menswear show around Cloud #07156, an immersive installation by Fujiko Nakaya that continuously filled the space with fog. There was another source of smoke in the room too though. On the front row, Charli xcx and Madonna each lit up a cig as they sat next to Heated Rivalry star Connor Storrie, as well as Kate Moss, Remi Malek, Joe Alwyn and more. It was stacked to say the least, calling in hoards of fans to the outside of the venue. 

WHAT IT WAS ABOUT: “Nobody is trying to seduce you. What makes them seductive is that they do not need to.” That idea drove Vaccarello this season, as he honed in on restraint rather than excess. Inspired by figures such as Marguerite Duras, Tina Chow and Mr Ripley, it was a reminder that sometimes less really is more.

WHAT WE WANT: Those gold trench coats, obviously. We’d also happily take the brooch-fastenings with their toned-down gemstones that dotted suit jackets, plus the jelly belts and matching jelly shoes (classic laced men’s shoes made in transparent polyvinyl chloride) that added a playful twist to the otherwise pared-back collection. Emily Phillips

AURALEE

WHAT WE SAW: Inside the Odéon Theatre in Paris, Auralee showcased an SS27 menswear collection that had us yearning for a summer holiday. Set outside the théâtre beneath its sand-coloured arches, models who looked like office workers came down the runway with their heads in the clouds, dreaming of their PTO.

WHAT IT WAS ABOUT: Creative director Ryota Iwai imbued his Tokyo-founded brand’s latest collection with the three stages of vacationing: anticipation, relaxation and reflection. Giving us a beachy mood from behind the desk, this collection didn’t want to highlight a specific destination, but rather the feeling of going on holiday – pre-holiday excitement, the freedom of travelling and the post-trip afterglow.

WHAT WE WANT: Souvenir-inspired charm necklaces to remind ourselves of the altered sense of self brought on by travelling. To pair, a loose-fitting melange-bouclé knit to throw on top of a swimsuit – the themes of holiday anticipation are definitely seeping in… OJ

Louis Vuitton

WHAT WE SAW: To the beach! For The Dandy Experience, Pharrell Williams transformed the runway into a coastal dreamscape centred around a tidal wave installation that pumped water which would eventually flow back into the city’s sewers and a white sand catwalk inside the Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris. Surfboards, a futuristic silver camper van and the sound of crashing water set the scene for a collection that brought the spirit of the shoreline to Paris. It brought out the likes of NBA player Wemby, The Bear star Jeremy Allen White, Charles Melton and two members of K-pop sensation BTS

WHAT IT WAS ABOUT: Built around the idea that “the wave is the great equaliser”, the collection explored the connection between surfers and dandies – two groups united by individuality, travel and personal style. Tailoring was infused with surf culture through weathered textures, technical fabrics, hand-worked embellishments and ocean-inspired details, creating looks designed for life between the city and the sea.

WHAT WE WANT: Those Louis Vuitton surfboards can come home with us any day. No, we don’t surf, but we like to imagine one day heading up to Cornwall and giving it a go. We’re also eyeing up the multi-hued beaded bags with coral-like appliqués, alongside the relaxed tailoring and pearl-trimmed accessories. Seafaring dandy? Don’t mind if we do. EP

Solid Homme

WHAT WE SAW: Set inside what seemed like a laboratory draped with yellow nets and dotted with terrariums housing miniature ecosystems, the Solid Homme SS27 show immersed guests in a world where scientific experimentation and the natural world coexist. The Korean house leaned into relaxed dressing this season, pairing easy tailoring with workwear inspired outerwear, lightweight silk-like shirts and technical accessories.

WHAT WAS IT ABOUT: Titled After Nature, the collection explored the space between the natural and the artificial, reimagining a wardrobe that lingers somewhere between the outdoor and practicality. Functional details from field bags to technical hoods and magnifying glasses transforms the models into modern explorers navigating the wild landscapes of urban life.

WHAT WE WANT: Those bucket hats were a true standout. Washed silk-like shirts, colour-blocked outerwear and an unexpected colour palette that shifted between soft neutrals and vivid bursts of colour, from violet shirts paired with cerulean trousers in look 13 to a peach shirt punctuated with geometric cut-outs in look 25. Adrian Miyagi

Christian Louboutin

WHAT WE SAW: For his SS27 Louboutin men’s presentation, Jaden Smith transformed the Palais Brongniart into a mythical red kingdom complete with giant crimson feet inspired by the Colossus of Rhodes and towering monoliths that looked like Stonehenge on Mars. Shoes were displayed throughout the immersive installation, from spikey-toed brogues to wonderfully weird, anatomical styles.

WHAT IT WAS ABOUT: Throughout the collection, fantasy met craftsmanship, with references spanning mythology, Robin Hood and Lord of the Rings, all filtered through Smith’s childlike sense of curiosity and Louboutin’s unmistakable flair for spectacle.

WHAT WE WANT: Those toe shoes were bonkers in the best way, but the patent red monster feet slip-ons completely won us over. They’re the sort of shoes you’d never think you’d wear until they’re suddenly all you can think about. Equal parts Bigfoot and Louboutin? Say no more. EP

Dior

WHAT WE SAW: An early morning escape from Paris’ soaring temperatures saw Jonathan Anderson present his third Dior menswear collection in the gardens of the Musée Nissim de Camondo. Inside the historic mansion, portraits by artist Giangiacomo Rossetti depicting models in the collection hung amongst the museum’s permanent collection, making it difficult to tell where history ended and fashion began. Outside, Fred again.. provided the soundtrack as models drifted through the gardens in organza tailoring, distressed denim and shimmering separates.

WHAT IT WAS ABOUT: Anderson continued his fascination with remixing the Dior archive. Familiar pieces were reworked through unexpected fabrics, proportions and techniques: tuxedos became sheer and weightless, houndstooth was printed instead of woven and couture scarf motifs from 1979 reappeared embroidered onto silk shirts. The collection blurred past and present, formality and ease, proving that classic menswear can feel fresh simply by shifting perspective.

WHAT WE WANT: That distressed sparkle cardigan hasn’t left our minds, nor have those sheer organza tuxedo jackets. Tailoring rarely looks this cool. EP

Photography by Christina Fragkou

Givenchy

WHAT WE SAW: Sarah Burton’s first standalone menswear collection for Givenchy was presented inside the house’s Avenue George V headquarters, where three rooms lined with Rachel Whiteread’s casts of wardrobe interiors turned the presentation into something quietly voyeuristic.

WHAT IT WAS ABOUT: The idea was simple: a wardrobe built around the pieces men actually wear, elevated through Burton’s razor-sharp eye for cut.

WHAT WE WANT: An almost highlighter-bright satin car coat, embroidered MA-1s, tapestry-knit florals and embellished evening jackets. EP

Rick Owens

WHAT WE SAW: When he’s not setting up a catwalk in his own home, Rick Owens’ tends to turn his attention to the Palais de Tokyo, with the SS27 men’s show storming the familiar, neo-classical setting. The set erected a bridge over the museum’s famed fountains, with water projected out in glorious arches that the models walked beneath. While the rest of Paris searched for shade, Gunna, Esdeekid, Jordan Clarkson, Sissy Misfit and Michèle Lamy, obvs, sat willingly in the blast radius of Owens’ SS27 spectacle.

WHAT IT WAS ABOUT: “We are all processing menace,” declared Owens in the show notes, exploring the different ways in which people respond to uncertainty: some arm themselves, some train, some turn away and some “turn to stone”. That idea manifested in militaristic silhouettes, sharp tailoring and inflatable suits, while the designer’s ongoing collaboration with Adidas introduced performance-driven Climacool technology and a new running shoe slated for 2027. 

WHAT WE WANT: In true Sumo style, Owens dreamed up a number of inflatable looks – some trousers tucked into sky-high boots, pillowy jackets blown-up to cartoonish proportions and a jumbo two-piece Sumo suit. EP

Dries Van Noten

WHAT WE SAW: Julian Klausner delivered a hazy, sun-drenched dream of a sophomore collection, with flowing tailoring, transparent layers, itty bitty short shorts and sequins that shimmered like sunlight does when it hits the water. Soft, sensual and wonderfully lightweight, it felt like it was made with Paris’s present heatwave in mind. 

WHAT IT WAS ABOUT: Inspired by Stéphane Mallarmé’s poem L’Après-midi d’un faune, Klausner imagined the wardrobe of someone waking slowly from an afternoon nap in the woods, unsure where dreams ended and reality began. That dreamlike sensuality informed every look, with transparent trench coats, washed silks, lingerie-inspired details and fluid tailoring replacing rigid masculinity with softness and ease. 

WHAT WE WANT: With plenty of the attendees calling it the best show of the season, we’re claiming the transparent trench coats, shimmering knits, ballerina flats and oversized slouchy bags before anyone else gets there. EP

Junya Watanabe

WHAT WE SAW: Le Trianon was transformed into Junya Watanabe‘s own glittering playground for menswear SS27, where tracksuits swaggered down the runway dripping in chains, pearls and enough embellishment to make minimalism feel positively miserable. Baseball caps came skewered with oversized brooches, crowns and fake banknotes, while tailoring was sliced apart and rebuilt into sculptural layers that hung over sportswear like jewellery in their own right.

WHAT IT WAS ABOUT: Bling Bling Bling was less a theme than a mission statement. Watanabe turned his attention to hip-hop, punk and street culture, piling maximalist embellishment onto Kappa tracksuits and his ever-expanding roster of collaborators.

WHAT WE WANT: Forget quiet luxury – we’ll take the pearl necklaces, crystal-soaked tailoring and anything that looks like it belongs in a Run-DMC dressing room. EP

Studio Nicholson

WHAT WE SAW: Studio Nicholson’s first ever catwalk show! This was the first time Nick Wakeman has staged a catwalk show for her brand she founded 16 years ago, choosing the gilded interiors of Hotel D’Evreux on Place Vendôme for the occasion.

WHAT WAS IT ABOUT: Wakeman said she wanted to drill down into the core components of the Studio Nicholson wardrobe, revisiting and reworking favourites from previous seasons with a new eye. 

WHAT WE WANT: A chocolate-coloured nylon trench paired with a check shirt and white jeans cut wide at the waist. Also the supersized messenger bags and elongated leather kitten heels. Delish. Paul Toner

Willy Chavarria

WHAT WE SAW: Willy Chavarria chose one of Paris’s best show locations, Espace Niemeyer, where the space was fragranted with a thick, earthy fragrance by Xinú. Willy knows how to bring out a great crowd and the frow was packed with the likes of Maluma, Gaspar Noe and Haider Ackermann in the audience, and Romeo Beckham, Jordan Clarkson and Bella Freud walking the show.

WHAT IT WAS ABOUT: The designer wanted to create a collection that was about “seeking joy in existence as sustenance in times of chaos and darkness”. Titled Comunión, he spoke about togetherness and the small things we inherit from our families, looking to the family home as a guiding inspiration for print and colour.

WHAT WE WANT: Floral dresses that glided elegantly as models walked. Other standouts were pinstriped suits with wide shoulders and XXL lapels, as well as low-waisted slacks with pastel-hued boxer shorts poking out. Also the T-shirts being pulled over the shoulders was a nice touch, especially in this horrendous heat.

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus 

WHAT WE SAW: Shout out to Comme for having one of the coolest show venues of the week. Élysée Montmarte was gorgeously air conditioned and dark, a must needed respite from the torturous sun outside.

WHAT IT WAS ABOUT: “If The War Were To End..” was the note given by Rei Kawakubo. It was as if she was imagining a place of escapism, where shirts and tailoring came in pastel hues and boots – made in collaboration with Mexicana – curled up dramatically at the toe, as if imagined in a dream.

WHAT WE WANT: Patchwork tartan full looks and long overcoats in a mistmatch of limes and violets. The show also ended with procession of models running down the catwalk with a sense of childlike glee, each wearing multi-coloured shirts, tees and shorts that collaged different hues and text graphics. Also a moment for a soundtrack: Kylie’s Can’t Get You Out Of My Head and Britney’s Womanizer, men’s choir accepella versions. Genius.

KIKO KOSTADINOV

WHAT WE SAW: Kiko turns double digits! Kostadinov celebrated 10 years of his namesake label with a show at Faculté de Pharmacie, which was carpeted an aquarium gravel-blue and backdropped by twinkling lights for the occasion. 

WHAT WAS IT ABOUT: Following last season, where Kostadinov set out to give his design handwriting a refresh, here he continued to refine and elevate his approach. He said he and his team are spending less time thinking about narratives around collections and instead are putting their focus into garment innovation and the cut of his pieces. He’s scaled back on the amount of looks in his shows and has stripped his collection of any prints, allowing for his geometric pattern-cutting to take centre stage. 

WHAT WE WANT: Elongated shirts in powdery violets and suit jackets that bulged elegantly at the shoulder. The latter was inspired by the artist Agostino Bonalumi, whose works often jutted from the walls in unusual formations. There were tunics which were held together with a fastening at the shoulder as well as cape-style tops with handkerchief hemlines. PT

Photography by Christina Fragkou

MAGLIANO

WHAT WE SAW: Luca Magliano skipped the catwalk and threw a dinner party instead. Staged inside legendary Parisian nightclub Maxim’s, smoke filled the air as Magliano’s muses sat round a table strewn with wine glasses and plates covered in food remnants and cigarette butts. 

WHAT WAS IT ABOUT: The beautiful boredom of endless summer days, where balmy evenings spent with friends feel like they have no end. Magliano was also led by silhouettes from both the 1970s and the 2000s, seeing the collection as an almost conversation with the styles of both decades. 

WHAT WE WANT: An olive green full tracksuit made with Diadora, shrunken pink polo shirts with double collars, also broad-shouldered suiting and printed jeans that looked as if the denim had peeled away to expose a cheetah print from beneath. PT

Soshiotsuki

WHAT WE SAW: The cobblestone courtyard of the Institut National de Jeunes Sourds de Paris played host to Soshiotsuki’s SS27 menswear show, where tailoring looked like it’d gently melted in the summer sun. Curved lapels, twisted belts and half-buttoned shirts sat alongside a fresh crop of collaborations with the likes of Sanyo Yamacho (sandals), Sanyocoat (outerwear), Kota Okuda (jewellery) and Asics (trainers), all giving the collection the feel of a holiday wardrobe gone delightfully askew, their forms reminiscent of the letter “S”.

WHAT IT WAS ABOUT: A holiday that never happened. Inspired by the image of a famously buttoned-up father loosening up at a resort, creative director Soshi Otsuki engineered garments to look perfectly undone, taking cues from Salvador Dalí’s melting surrealism to create tailoring that appeared soft, slouched and accidental but was anything but.

WHAT WE WANT: EVERY. SINGLE. LOOK. to be completely honest. But if we had to choose, that patina-touched colourblock leather jacket with its ’80s style cinch at the waist certainly caught our eye and those chunky patterned neckties are an instant must-have. EP

Sacai

WHAT WE SAW: In a high-ceiled, moss-coloured space in the 6th Arrondissement, Chitose Abe showcased her SS27 collection. Pharrell sat front row, as did Jazzie B of legendary UK music collective Soul II Soul and his son Mahlon Romeo (they worked with the brand on a collab – more on that later). They bobbed their heads to remixed versions of Soul II Soul classics Keep On Movin’ and Back to Life, whilst the crowd watched attentively as the scruffy-haired cast – a mix of genders and ages – swaggered and stepped to each beat. 

WHAT IT WAS ABOUT: Aptly titled The New Classics, Abe wanted to reimagine the staples, blending traditional tailoring with an experimental flair. Splicing preppy and military codes to create wearable yet delightfully off-kilter looks, the collection challenged the rigid framework of conservative, menswear tailoring. Tassel ties, loose fitting blazers with triple layered lapels and a Birkenstock collab that encouraged pairing socks, sandals and suiting, it was an exercise in designing outside of the lines.

WHAT WE WANT: Now onto the collab with Soul II Soul. Incorporating archive imagery from the band’s Sunday night sessions at The Africa Centre, the pieces celebrated the groundbreaking event that’s hailed as one of the first that brought music lovers from all backgrounds together. The Funki Dred emblem, designed for Soul II Soul, also featured on t-shirts and sweats. A piece of music history, made wearable. 

WOOYOUNGMI

WHAT WE SAW: The last day of shows began with Wooyoungmi, who took over the decedent Salle Wagram auditorium – which was bathed in a calming blue light.

WHAT WAS IT ABOUT: This season, Madame Woo wanted to bring a sense of escapism to her wardrobe. For her latest Wooyoungmi outing, her design hand was guided by Heung, a “Korean concept of joy, spontaneity and rhythm”. She wanted to create garments that expressed lightness and optimism, or “elation through clothes”, as noted in the press release.

WHAT WE WANT: Madras check blazers paired with boyish shorts, also track jackets in emerald green and sheer, wispy coats made using a crumple-dying technique.

Top image: photography by Christina Fragkou.

@10magazine

Shopping cart0
There are no products in the cart!
Continue shopping
0