Those tantalised by tailoring and starstruck by streetwear, hold onto your hats – the menswear season is nearly here and we can hardly wait. Starting with London, the fash-pack will then head to everyone’s favourite Florentine trade fair, Pitti Uomo, before travelling to Milan and closing out in Paris. There’s a lot to look forward to this time round, with Pitti continuing its tradition of inviting guest designers to showcase collections on its Florence-based runway – this season it’s Marine Serre and Paul Smith – whilst London has opted for an overhauled format which focuses on cultural talks and exhibitions. Beloved pioneer of British design, Martine Rose, joins the schedule in Milan for the first time, whilst big hitters like Gucci, Zegna, Prada and Louis Vuitton all return for what is sure to be some showstopping runways. Prick your interest? 10 Towers has done the research so you don’t have to – below are the top ten things to look forward to at the SS25 menswear shows.
Louis Vuitton Menswear AW24
Marine Serre Guest Designs at Pitti Uomo
From 11 to 14 June, the picturesque landscape of Firenze in Florence will become home to the industry’s most prevalent names, as fashion fans flock for Pitti Immagine Uomo to see, among other things, the collection of this season’s guest designer, Marine Serre. Paris-based, the young talent, who is the creative director of her eponymous label, has become one of the buzziest placements on the French capital’s schedule. Championing a sustainable approach whilst staying true to her stylish flare and crescent-checkered signature, her show at Pitti will be her first official debut of a collection that is solely menswear. It’s not one to miss.
Paul Smith Returns to Pitti
A connoisseur of British menswear design is set to make his return to Pitti Uomo alongside Serre, and that’s Paul Smith. Revered for his playful approach to design, the showcase will mark Smith’s second runway at Pitti, with the first taking place back in 1993.
London’s New Format
London’s fashion week schedule, which this year is running from June 7 to 9, has received a fresh coat of paint this season. Dividing into two themes – a celebration of culture and a celebration of menswear – the former will take over the Institute of Contemporary Arts for a calendar rich with talks, dinners and exhibitions whilst the latter will include more traditional displays like runways as well as lively events like a pub quiz and run club. Commemorating 40 years of London Fashion Week, the format pays homage to the city’s cultural melting pot which overflows with talent and unmatched craftsmanship with a programme of 40 events. With appearances from non-binary model Kai Isaiah-Jamal and shows from Harri and Charles Jeffrey, London is well and truly calling.
Harri and Charles Jeffrey Showcase in London
London has long been an incubator for some of fashion’s most exciting talents, with Harri and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy being no exception. With newcomer Harri becoming known for his wonderfully bulbous latex creations that bounce with a mind of their own, and Jeffrey’s keen eye for boldly eccentric graphics that have garnered him quite the cult following, these two talents are always an exciting watch. While Harri is scheduled for a presentation the Saturday morning, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy will put on a catwalk show Friday evening.
Martine Rose and Dunhill take to Milan
Fan-favourite and London native Martine Rose has always chosen to station herself firmly on her home turf when it came to the main menswear schedules, but this season, she’s opted for a different approach. Choosing this season to instead showcase in Milan, it is set to be an intriguing watch how this move influences Rose’s presentation and shines an alternative light on her collection. Also making moves is British heritage company, Dunhill, who is also set to move from London to the Italian fashion capital. Both shows are scheduled to take place on Sunday 16 June, so keep a keen eye peeled.
Dior Menswear AW24
Milan’s heavy hitters are back with a bang
Milan’s roster for luxury heavyweights has always been hefty, with this season proving to be no different. Sabato De Sarno’s ever-evolving Gucci will showcase its sophomore menswear collection after debuting in January, whilst Jonathan Anderson’s namesake label, JW Anderson, is likely to attract praise from fans over his innovative and unique approach to design. Residents like Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Jordanluca, Jacob Cohën, Emporio and Giorgio Armani, Fendi, and Dsquared2 are all set to put on some showstopping catwalks, with Zegna closing the week out. One of the most anticipated shows however is Moschino, as it presents it’s first men’s and women’s pre-collection under the creative direction of its new head designer, Adrian Appiolaza. It’s a chock-a-block schedule ready for the feasting.
MSGM Celebrates 15 Years
MSGM are in celebration mode this season as the brand commemorates its 15th anniversary with a special co-ed showcase. Nodding to when founder and creative director Massimo Giorgetti debuted the label with a combined offering, the event will pay homage to the brand’s roots. Presenting both men’s spring/summer 2025 and women’s resort 2025, the show is sure to be a standout of the season.
Louis Vuitton Opens Paris
Ever since debuting his first collection on Paris’ Pont Neuf bridge for SS24, Pharrell Williams’ theatrical menswear displays for Louis Vuitton have become one of the hottest tickets of the season. This time around is no different with the American multi-hyphenate nabbing the opening spot in Paris on June 18. Talk about starting off with a bang.
Dries Van Noten Says Goodbye
After announcing in March that he would be departing from his namesake label come the end of June, Belgian designer Dries Van Noten has been on the receiving end of an outpouring of praise and accolades for the work he has done over the four decades he has stood at its helm. Now, the time has come for him to show his last collection at this season’s Paris Fashion Week, taking place between 18 to 23 June. A farewell that’s sure to be fond, the show is set to take place on the evening of 22 June.
Paris’s Explosive Schedule
The Paris schedule is always full to the brim with fashion’s most reputable houses, with this season being no exception. Louis Vuitton, Rick Owens, Hermes and Loewe are all gearing up to showcase their view of what the incoming season will look like, alongside Japanese staples like Junya Watanabe and Comme des Garçons. Alongside the mega-houses that populate its schedule, Paris also has a healthy helping of upcoming designers with Kiko Kostadinov, Bianca Saunders, Botter and Wales Bonner all set to show in the French capital. All known for their innovative and creative approach to menswear, these runways are sure to punctuate the grandeur brought by the big houses with a bit more grit and playfulness.
Valentino Menswear AW24
Top image: From left to right – Jordan Luca Menswear Spring 2024, Andersson Bell Menswear Spring 2024, Wooyoungmi Menswear Spring 2024. Photography by Christina Fragkou. Follow all the action from the SS25 menswear shows via our Instagram stories at @10magazine and @10menmagazine.
