October 1, 2026 |
Heavy breathing, thongs, cruising: Haider Ackermann presented his most libidinous Tom Ford collection yet. He got straight down to business with the opening look: a hairy chested man wearing a pinstripe business suit with his shirt unbuttoned to the waist stalked the show space, admiring his reflection in a glass partition. He was followed by a briefcase-toting woman, also in pinstripes and a string vest with no bra underneath. That string vest, by the way, was actually made from super-supple, laser-cut leather. Kink and craft come together at Tom Ford.
Leather played a big part in this collection, from the folded leather bra tops, worn with sheer pencil skirts, to sleek tailored trouser suit for men and women worn with nothing underneath. At this house, second skin is second nature.
The models poured onto the catwalk eying each other up in sheer unitards, and strong shouldered body suits worn sans skirts. One trouser suit was tailored in sheer in chiffon. Even the denim pieces suggested deshabille, with one pair of jeans so tattered at the back you see the models boxer shorts. A series of lean red gowns delivered the drop-dead sophistication this label excels at. Deeply scooped silk tees worn under tuxedos also hinted at undress.
A cheeky viral moment came when a male model, parading in swimwear, turned to reveal his thong-backed trunks – a reference perhaps to the scandalous buttock baring moment Ford pulled off at Gucci in 1997. Swimwear closed the show, with Ackermann cutting daring, architectural lines across the body. In the flesh it was stunning.
Photography courtesy of Tom Ford.
