At the crux of adornment sits high jewellery – the most extraordinary expressions of artistry, the rarest of materials, the most technically considered feats of craftsmanship. And last week during Paris Haute Couture Week, some of the most proficient brands in the biz unveiled their summer 2026 collections, from Hermes’s equestrian elegance to Bvlgari’s dazzling diamonds and much more. Here, we dissect our favourites, bringing you the standout collections and the pieces that stole the spotlight. Emily Phillips
HERMÈS – INTO THE HORSESCAPE
For its ninth haute bijouterie collection, Hermès turned to its equestrian heritage for inspiration. Titled Into The Horsescape, the 90-piece offering is divided into 14 distinct sections, exploring themes of freedom, movement, craftsmanship and mythology. Created by Pierre Hardy, who has been steering the Hermès jewellery ship since 2001, the collection embodies a much more symbolic interpretation of the horse as well as incorporating more literal elements such as stirrups, lassos, harnesses and bridles. The Galop Hermès ring, for example, shows two horseheads meeting with a quiet elegance, reflecting the innate sculptural elements of the animal’s formidable silhouette. More abstract pieces, such as the Lasso Disco necklace, sit delicately atop the décolletage, the lines of lasso rope recalled by an intricate, intertwining string of baguette cut diamonds. The gemstones across the collection have also been selected to reflect the tones of the equestrian world. Warm, brown diamonds and rose gold was intended to mirror the horse’s glossy coats, whilst black jade has been deployed to recall the animal’s hooves. A striking ode to the house’s enduring muse, this collection is as much a love letter as it is luminous gems. Bella Koopman
CHANEL – SIGNES & SYMBOLES
In a dynamic dance of light and shine, the Signes & Symboles high jewellery collection from Chanel captures Gabrielle Chanel’s enchanting reverence for the power of symbols. Divided into four sections that each explore a signature symbol from the house’s vast design canon – the Camellia, Star, Sun and Lion – the offering nods to the founder’s rich life, looking to her personal history, memory, travels and inspirations. Rooted in Chanel’s belief that creation is an act of freedom and reinterpreting this through a contemporary lens, the 85-piece collection blends opulent form with geometric precision. Centered around the ‘precious four’ gemstones – sapphire, ruby, emerald and diamond – the colour palette is bold and unapologetic, emulating Chanel’s approach to design.
One example of this is the Lion emblématique brooch, crafted from white gold, rose gold, yellow gold, diamonds, yellow diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds and turquoise. Chanel was never one to stick to the rules and this piece reflects that, with the piece crafted to be transformable – to be worn either as a pendant or on a chain. A glistening ode to the gall of fashion’s most formidable figures, this collection is not for the faint hearted. BK
BVLGARI – ECLETTICA
For its latest Eclettica (meaning eclectic in Italian) chapter, Bvlgari works to prove that diamonds can do a lot more than sparkle – they can drape, fold and move like fabric. The Roman house dedicates an entire capsule to the gemstone alone, transforming it into wondrous lace-like constructions. Across 26 pieces, diamonds are articulated through hundreds of tiny modules, all sculpted on busts as in couture ateliers, that allow each necklace to ripple with remarkable fluidity, blurring the line between precious metal, solid gemstones and fluid fabric.
A standout piece is the Serpenti de Tulle necklace, which cleverly fuses two Italian icons – the centuries-old tradition of Burano and its intricate tulle lace, and Bvlgari’s legendary serpent. Crafted from 350 articulated white gold modules, its geometric arrangement of carré, baguette and pavé diamonds creates an airy transparency that genuinely resembles delicate netting. Even the fastening has been reimagined, hiding a detachable chain that can be worn at the front or back for an unexpectedly versatile finish.
Elsewhere, the Dentelle Lumineuse choker, inspired by bobbin lace in particular, is pure technical mastery. Comprising 475 individual elements and centred by five round diamonds totalling more than eight carats, it wraps around the neck with astonishing softness, while a detachable pendant transforms into a bracelet – even the most extravagant high jewellery can have a playful streak. EP
DOLCE & GABBANA – IL VERDE MAIOLICA: THE MEDITERRANEAN GARDEN
Dolce & Gabbana heads home for alta gioielleria (high jewellery), presenting Il Verde Maiolica: The Mediterranean Garden within the historic San Domenico in Taormina. Surrounded by cloisters, citrus trees and sweeping views across the Ionian Sea, the collection celebrates Sicily’s lush gardens, centuries of devotion and the island’s unmistakable exuberance. As always with Dolce & Gabbana, sentimentality comes hand in hand with unapologetic maximalism, translating the region’s flora and fauna into dazzling wearable treasures.
Among the highlights is an irresistibly playful cherry-peppered ring, where a trio of glossy cherries and two gem-embedded cherries appear almost ripe enough to pick. The ring is elevated by vibrant gemstones including 307 pink sapphires, 250 rubies, 74 colourless diamonds and two black brilliant cut diamonds as well as meticulous yellow, white and pink goldwork. Equal parts whimsical and decadent, it captures the house’s knack for turning everyday Mediterranean symbols into unapologetically luxurious statements.
Then there’s the composite bee brooch, which spotlights one of Sicily’s most enduring emblems of prosperity and nature. Reimagined in yellow and white gold with a 52.50 carat freshwater pearl body, 0.30 carat pink tourmaline eyes and 2.76 carats of brown and colourless diamonds decorating its body, the tiny creature buzzes with lifelike detail. Set against a collection inspired by hidden gardens and flourishing greenery, it perfectly encapsulates Dolce & Gabbana’s enduring love affair with the island. EP
TIFFANY – BLUE BOOK 2026: HIDDEN GARDEN
Nature has always been fertile ground for Tiffany & Co., but Blue Book 2026: Hidden Garden dials everything up to full bloom. Designed by chief artistic officer Nathalie Verdeille, the collection revisits Jean Schlumberger’s fantastical flora and fauna through richly coloured gemstones, sculptural silhouettes and remarkable movement. Birds perch on extraordinary stones, petals appear caught in the breeze and woven gold mimics raffia, all executed with the technical precision the brand has long been known for.
Leading the flock is the annual Legendary Bird: The Sapphire Edition, a one-of-a-kind masterpiece unveiled during couture week. Centred around a breathtaking 34.48 carat unenhanced Madagascan sapphire, hummingbird-inspired Bird on a Rock motifs hover above orchid-like blooms crafted from black opal doublets, mother-of-pearl, diamonds and rubies. The layering creates extraordinary depth, making the birds appear as if they are ready to take flight.
Elsewhere, the Paradise Bird chapter offers a fresh spin on the iconic Bird on a Rock. The standout sees the beloved bird perched atop a mesmerising Australian boulder opal, its feathers rendered in emeralds, turquoise, tourmalines and diamonds, making for a piece that’s vividly colourful, eccentric and unmistakably Tiffany. EP
BOUCHERON – CARTE BLANCHE: HUMAN BEING
Every year, like clockwork, Boucheron’s Carte Blanche collection pushes high jewellery somewhere unexpected. This season, creative director Claire Choisne turned her attention away from the natural world and towards humanity itself. Titled Human Being, the collection asks what connects us and what makes us different through five necklaces that all share the same classic cluster silhouette, each realised using entirely different materials and techniques. More than 14,000 hours of craftsmanship later, the result is one of couture week’s most technically ambitious offerings.
The Checkers necklace steals the show. Inspired by houndstooth, it transforms a familiar textile into sculptural onyx using ultra-precise femtosecond laser engraving normally reserved for watchmaking. Each of the 163 individually engraved stones was designed so the pattern flows seamlessly across the necklace, creating the uncanny illusion of woven fabric despite being carved from solid stone.
Just as mesmerising is the Rain necklace. Thousands of diamonds appear suspended inside crystal-clear rock crystal droplets, painstakingly encased by hand within plant-based resin to mimic rainfall frozen in mid-air. Over 4,800 diamonds were individually positioned before the droplets were linked by an articulated spine that allows the necklace to cascade naturally across the body. It’s an extraordinary feat of engineering presented under the guise of effortless elegance. EP
VAN CLEEF & APRPELS – FASCINATING EGYPT
When Van Cleef showcased its Fascinating Egypt collection in Paris in June, guests were spellbound. Drawing on the enduring mystique of one of history’s greatest civilisations, each piece felt equal parts theatrical and artistically masterful. The offering embraces the grandeur of narrative. Comprising a vast selection of around 180 high jewellery creations, the collection draws on centuries of fascination with ancient Egypt, from Napoleon’s campaigns to the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb and the waves of Egyptomania that swept through European art and design. Take the muse des arts clips, one of which is a tribute to the unforgettable Cleopatra costume worn by Cher in 1988. Sculpted using white and yellow gold with rubies, sapphires and diamonds executing the details, these pieces reproduce antiquity through a distinctly contemporary lens. 10 Magazine
DIOR – DIORISSIMA
If last year’s Dior high jewellery collection revelled in fauna – all delicate creatures and fantastical animals – this year turns its attention to flora. Diorissima, unveiled by Victoire de Castellane for 2026, is a lavish meditation on the natural world, filtered through the jeweller’s maximalist lens. The outcome is a fever dream garden, forming a collection dense with colour, texture and movement. Since taking the helm of Dior Joaillerie in 1999, de Castellane has treated jewellery as a space for storytelling rather than ornament alone. Diorissima continues that approach, unfolding across three distinct worlds inspired by Christian Dior’s fascination with life in all its forms. There are lush, overgrown landscapes tangled with fruit-laden branches, underwater scenes alive with coral and fish suspended among bubbles and celestial compositions where eclipses, suns and clouds drift across the body as gemstones. Across 141 pieces – including brooches, ear cuffs, bracelets and elaborate necklaces – colour does much of the talking. One standout includes a ring, constructed in yellow gold, with a structure of yellow sapphires flourishing in its centre suspending a pear shaped, midnight blue sapphire. Turquoise beads, fashioned as flowers on the ring’s side add further vibrancy, each colour playing off the other in a magnetic composition. Pieces like this illustrate Diorissima doesn’t simply reference nature, it constructs an entire fantasy ecosystem around the wearer, rich with detail and just slightly surreal. 10 Magazine
CHAUMET – A JOURNEY THROUGH NATURE
Embark on a journey with Chaumet’s high jewellery collection, titled A Journey Through Nature, where nature’s enduring vitality comes to life. It invites you into an intimate yet powerful vision of the natural world, where you can witness growth and transformation, embrace nature’s energy and preserve its sense of mystery. Inspired by the forms of pods, pistils, seeds and petals, each piece translates these delicate botanical details into sculptural jewellery, offering wide range of designs from rings, earrings and necklace, to watches and tiara.
The Verbena Bouquet necklace, for instance, reinterprets Chaumet’s signature mesh pattern into an exceptionally light silhouette. An organic triptych of multicoloured gemstones cascades from the centre, where a vivid canary yellow diamond anchors the design. Set in yellow gold, the nuanced design echoes nature’s understated sophistication.
Another highlight is the Saffron Flower Earrings, where a rich palette captures the vibrancy of the saffron blossom. Suspended beneath each bloom, a vivid yellow diamond evokes the flower’s seed, adding movement and brilliance. Diamond-set petals are delicately layered with grand feu enamel, showcasing Chaumet’s exceptional craftsmanship while revealing remarkable depth, texture and lifelike dimension. Ni Li
POMELLATO – STILE LIBERO
Pomellato’s latest high jewellery collection, Pomellato Stile Libero celebrates freedom and style, balancing bold creativity with the jeweller’s signature effortless elegance. Unfolding across three chapters, Visionary Colours, Magnetic Gold and Hypnotic Shadows, each explores a distinct narrative through exceptional craftsmanship.
Among the highlights is the Arabesque necklace from chapter Hypnotic Shadows, crafted in 18 karat rose gold. Created in collaboration with French artist Sara Bran, the necklace reimagines Pomellato’s floral motifs through Bran’s distinctive ornamental aesthetic. An oversized chain leads to a crescent-shaped openwork collar, where thin florals intertwine with pavé-set diamonds and 18 fancy rose-cut diamonds. Balancing spontaneity with precision, the necklace embodies Pomellato’s creative freedom, rooted in expressive artistry and time-honoured artistry. NL
GRAFF – BUTTERFLY BROOCHES
Comprising 12 one-of-a-kind butterfly brooches, each formed of two pear shape and two marquise stones, Graff‘s latest high jewellery collection offers a fresh interpretation of one of the maison’s most iconic motifs. Alongside its exceptional diamonds and rubies, the collection digs through the archive to inspire the pieces which embrace pearls, black spinels, tourmalines and pink opals, bringing new depth, colour and character to the house’s visual language. Each creation is designed to be worn as both a brooch and a pendant, combining exceptional craftsmanship with remarkable versatility.
One show-stopping piece is the pink opal Luna butterfly brooch, which boasts a marquise-cut diamond at its centre while 1.36 carats of pavé-set diamonds trace the delicate contours of the insect’s wings. Soft pink opal forms the wings, punctuated by brilliant-cut diamonds to enhance soft iridescence of the saccharine stones. Suspended beneath the butterfly, a one carat natural seawater pearl and a diamond introduce graceful movement, lending the piece an ethereal sense of lightness and elegance.
Another standout is the Tamara brooch, named for Art Deco artist Tamara de Lempicka, where Graff captures the butterfly in an exquisitely lifelike pose, as though suspended mid-flight. Drawing inspiration from the defining sunburst motifs of the Art Deco era, the brooch centres on a marquise-cut emerald from Zambia, while its wings are articulated through 1.66 carats of precisely set diamonds that form crisp, radiating lines, punctuated by vivid emeralds totalling at 3.61 carats. The striking interplay of geometry, light and colour lends the piece an unmistakable sense of mystery and quiet sophistication. NL
DE BEERS – TALISMAN
De Beers renews and reimagines its Talisman collection for summer 2026 with four fresh high jewellery pieces as what the house describes as a “new creative expression” of this signature design.
Initially launched back in 2005 as the first of its kind and echelon to place rough and polished diamonds side by side, Talisman revolutionised the world of haute bijouterie. Now, it’s brought back to life with an 18 karat gold cuff, a medallion, a pair of earrings and a ring that amplify the collection’s signature tension between raw nature and refined craftsmanship through bolder proportions and sculptural silhouettes. Said cuff is the kind of statement jewel that will draw eyes from far and wide. Not only is it remarkably sculptural – complete with a seamless hidden clasp that lets the gold wrap uninterrupted around the wrist – but it’s also set with approximately 11 carats of 14 alternately textured diamonds in warm hues, anchored by a striking one-carat white central diamond.
Talisman is defined, also, by use of De Beers’ signature poinçon texture, which is executed by hammering the surface of these precious metals with a pyramid-shaped chisel. Rather than relying on traditional claws, the technique moulds gold around each stone, allowing every rough diamond’s naturally irregular form to remain proudly on show – exactly as nature intended. EP
Top image: photography courtesy of Hermès.
