December 3, 2025 |
To the French town of Avignon and its historic 14th-century Palais des Papes, a fortress and former papal residence. Into this majestic, medieval setting, Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière sent out a cruise collection that thrilled with intensely decorated, couture-level finery infused with a medieval meets glam-rock charisma – David Bowie and the Haim sisters were on his mood board along with the 1981 fantasy movie Excalibur.
Ghesquière’s models stepped onto a runway of light that beamed through the imposing courtyard of the biggest medieval structure in Europe. In the same week, Avignon was also hosting its annual theatre festival, with Louis Vuitton adding fashion spectacle into the cultural mix.
Inspired by the setting, Ghesquière took the rich wallpapers and brocades from the papal bedroom in the Palais as a starting point for lavish gilded and embellished fabrics with details and collages from medieval romance imagery and heraldry, as well a rock and roll flamboyance plus fantasy movie and gamer costumes.
Julia Nobis opened the show in a sequinned and beaded knight’s tunic, worn with swashbuckling, slouchy boots. The medieval-tournament-inspired looks continued with leather jousting jerkins and courtly knitted capes licked with flame motifs. Gowns were cut short at the front and trailed long flounces and chiffon behind.
Ghesquière placed his audience on throne-like seats on the runway – all the better to see the overwhelming richness and intensity of the fabrics and textures up close.
Short coats and mini skirts were rendered in lavish brocades or gleaming silk lamé, while open-toed boots heaved with mirrored mosaic appliqué. The leggy proportions gave the collection a modern sense of movement, but the lavish detailing and abundance of mini capes added to a sense of heroic glamour with Pat McGrath’s glam-rock, metallic eye make-up adding to the effect.
“It looks at history, but it’s not historical,” said the designer of his deft collage of eras and references. The collection, he said, was “women’s armour for everyday life”.
And what a life! The accessories were lavished with craft. The brand’s famous Alma bag was decorated like illuminated ancient manuscript and a collaboration with a young French craftsman, Thomas Roger, produced a series of wood-framed, collector’s item bags.
The grand setting was the perfect stage for Ghesquière to explore the performative aspect of clothing, with his practical shapes informed by the everyday and rendered in fantastical fabrics. The art inherent in fashion creation is always on his mind – and on his catwalk. Bravo.
10+ Issue 8 – FUTURE, JUBILEE, CELEBRATION – is on newsstands December 5. Pre-order your copy here.
LOUIS VUITTON: MEDEIVAL MUSING
Photographer KASIA WOZNIAK
Fashion Editor SOPHIA NEOPHITOU
Text CLAUDIA CROFT
Model HODY YIM at Milk Model Management
Hair HIROSHI MATSUSHITA using ORIBE Hair Care
Make-up ANDREW GALLIMORE
Manicurist HAYLEY EVANS-SMITH at Saint Luke
Set designer ISABELLA FURNESS
Photographer’s assistant IOANNIS TSIAVO
Fashion assistants GEORGIA EDWARDS and ARA LOPEZ
Set design assistant ARYANA SHEIBANI
Production ZAC APOSTOLOU
Clothing, shoes, bags and accessories throughout LOUIS VUITTON CRUISE 2026
Make-up throughout La Beauté LOUIS VUITTON
LOUIS VUITTON CRUISE 2026
