Like an enchanting symphony of exquisite tailoring, Daniel w. Fletcher’s AW23 collection unfurled, midnight hued evening suit after relaxed daytime style. Staged in the gilded galleries of the Royal Academy of Arts, the off-schedule see-now-buy-now show marked the start of a sparse men’s fashion week (or month for that matter) and dedicated itself to precision cuts and polished construction. This was the result of Fletcher teaming up with the deft tailors at Huntsman, the 174 year old Savile Row tailor, and its creative director, Campbell Carey. Entitled, I Loved You From The Start, the designers looked toward craft and Britain’s history to reimagine Fletcher’s androgynous signatures with the panache of a 19th century couturier.
Leading up to the show, Fletcher spent six months working alongside the historic house to develop nine bespoke suits and 12 ready-to-wear styles, each inspired by contemporary interpretations of their shared archives. Tailoring featured bold, shoulders and louche blousons with shearling lapels. The synergy between both brands was apparent in the pleated detailing of a men’s single breasted evening jacket and a women’s camel coat. Twill corsets underscored more relaxed silhouettes with a wink of Y2K. Dapper navy jackets, one cropped, one formal, both with white basting stitching felt like a clever tribute to the legacy of Savile Row; a sleek pair of front-stitch trousers, a collared shirt, overcoats and even a boiler suit displayed contrast stitching too. As models languidly meandered along the runway, a duet of strapless column gowns (with pockets!) danced around each other; opposites in hue, one was black, the other white, like the yin and yang of functional elegance. It was a heritage rich, debonair affair.
Photography courtesy of Daniel w. Fletcher.