Alexander McQueen’s SS24 menswear collection is a lesson in soft yet statement elegance. With an emphasis on silhouette, the offering includes double breasted jackets, shin-length overcoats and a healthy array of statement suiting – most of which have been edited with swollen sleeves, widened lapels and augmented breast pockets. A continuation of creative director Sarah Burton’s AW23 collection, which explored anatomy by subverting garments that were structured on the body, this season interprets the same theme with a greater emphasis on moulding and curving.
An air of delicacy is reinforced by both construction and pattern choice. Three-dimensional hand-crocheted knitwear pieces are a feat of exquisite craftsmanship, with a multi-coloured version mirroring a floral bouquet and an ivory hinting at its crystallisation. Inspired by Dutch Old Master paintings, chiaroscuro flowers pop up across the collection, splashed onto structured suits and wool scuba coats. A subtle addition, crystal-encrusted silver flower broaches are pinned onto collars.
Flourishes of charm and eccentricity find themselves throughout. An abstract fold print, developed by designer and long-time collaborator Simon Ungless, is transferred in metallic gold onto a black or white jacquard, taking the form of tailored jackets, cigarette trousers and a floor length cape that concludes the collection.
A spattering of leather gives this season’s look a tougher underscore, with looks being paired with thick-soled black boots or derby shoes. Appliquéd, ceremonial-like harnessing draws on archive McQueen collections and belts decorated with metal buckles and detachable chains add a covert edge.