Saul Nash Is Making Sportswear Sexy

Has the London look ever been this slick? From Saul Nash’s sportswear-tailoring crossovers and Oscar Ouyang’s knitwear wonders to the West African influences of Labrum and the cult wardrobe of Stefan Cooke, these brands are making the sort of menswear worth getting excited about.

SAUL NASH

Hackney-born Saul Nash first made his name on home turf with all-dancing catwalk spectacles that displayed his kinetic-cut sportswear in high-flying action. Now he’s fled the nest, taking his collections to Milan. Showing in the Italian fashion capital was, he said, a way of “looking at how my work could be translated to different audiences. As creatives, you always have an aspiration to see what’s next. There’s always a curiosity around how you expand what you do to new people.”

Milan marked a transitional period in Nash’s designs. His most recent outings have seen him explore movement-based cutting prowess and breathable fabrics outside of sportswear by going into more formal territories. Nash’s own tastes and desires from his wardrobe are changing as he moves through his thirties, as are those of his loyal customer base. Yes, they still want a great pair of track pants, but they’re also after shirts, trousers, suiting even, for when the occasion demands it.

Emilio wears SAUL NASH

He approaches menswear archetypes with transformative flair. His AW25 show, which was based around the idea of metamorphosis, had military-inspired bomber jackets belted with cummerbunds that doubled as technical padded scarves that could be worn as cross-body bags. Elsewhere, Japanese Kaihara denim sets came with kinetic lines and shirts were equipped with asymmetric fastenings that could be unbuttoned and retied to change the garment’s shape.

“I’ve never really wanted to be boxed in as a creative,” says Nash. “My understanding and knowledge around sportswear will always inform anything I’ll move into. But [the brand] is about exploring the spectrum of my creativity.”

He built momentum with his SS26 offering, which he dubbed “a study of sensuality through movement”. He was thinking about the power of physical connection, for instance the act of embracing another person (compression tops came with a handprint stretched across the chest, like the wearer was being held), but also how clothes respond to the body in motion.

Maxime wears SAUL NASH

“We’ve been looking at the spectrum of men who wear our clothes,” says Nash. Guys turn to his clothes when they want to feel their sexiest selves, on the dance floor and beyond.

“I think sportswear in general can be quite sexy. For me, there is an emphasis on showing skin. You can almost see the body through [the garment] but nothing’s ever heavily styled. The body becomes a blank canvas when you put the clothes on it. How does what we do empower and uplift?” One way Nash has achieved this is by leading with functionality, as demonstrated by his ongoing collaboration with Canadian sports giant Lululemon, now in its third season.

“It’s been quite beautiful to be able to make decisions and then to have their team be really open to trial and test,” he adds. “We’ve managed to push ourselves to create things we never thought we could.”

Taken from 10 Men Issue 63 – CLASSIC, CRAFT, NOSTALGIA – out NOW. Order your copy here

stefancooke.com

THE FAB FOUR 

Photographer LEONARDO VELOCE
Fashion Editor KAREN BINNS
Text PAUL TONER
Models EMILIO DE DUVE and MAXIME EL HANAFI at Select Model Management
Hair SEBASTIEN BASCLE using Hair Rituel by SISLEY
Make-up EMMA MILES at Caren using WELEDA
Photographer’s assistant BRANDO GRAMAZIO
Fashion assistant SORAYA RIZZUTO
Casting CONAN LAURENDOT
Production SONYA MAZURYK

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