June 17, 2026 |
Day two of Graduate Fashion Week at The Truman Brewery unfolded with a particularly contagious energy. It was more than just a celebration of talent and collaboration. It was about reinventing heritage.
Perhaps setting the tone was the Liberty Fabrics x GFF catwalk show, which closed the day’s schedule in celebration of 150 years of Liberty London. The showcase presented colourful, boundary-pushing student work created using Liberty’s spring/summer 2026 Floral Rebellion collection or inspired by the brand’s 150-year legacy – a meeting between one of London’s most enduring fashion institutions and the designers shaping its future.
But that spirit of reimagining tradition was palpable throughout the day, beginning with GFW Men’s, the dedicated menswear showcase that opened the programme. Bringing together graduate menswear collections from across the GFF membership, the runway pulsed to the rhythm of vibrant hues, strutting silhouettes and fierce juxtapositions reinterpreting menswear codes as old as time in ways that felt refreshingly contemporary and – oh so cool.
Among the emerging change makers stood out the elegantly dark designs of Yanhan Zhou of Kingston University. Drawing on the aesthetics of vintage military rain ponchos and Chinese Taoist traditions, Zhou’s collection was inspired by solitary journeys through wild landscapes and a search for inner peace. The result was a thoughtful exploration of protection, functionality, and cultural heritage reimagined for contemporary life. We were lucky enough to catch him right after the show and hear more about the creative vision behind his work.
Congratulations, Yanhan! How are you feeling after seeing your work on the runway?
It was all so exciting, a really amazing show.
What’s the story of your collection?
It’s quite a long one. Since I was a child, I’ve been fascinated by stories about great explorers, adventurers, and pioneers who travelled to faraway places that nobody had been to before and achieved great things. As I grew older, I started taking my own journeys alone, travelling with just one backpack containing all the clothes I needed for the week. I felt that those garments protected me throughout those experiences – physically but also mentally.
Because of my background in China, I also thought about the Taoist tradition, where people undertake long, solitary journeys in search of peace and self-discovery. I began wondering how I could combine these two ideas: protecting modern explorers and people searching for their own path, their own Tao. That was the starting point of the collection.
Were you on a journey yourself when you started developing your creative vision?
I was! It happened on a week-long hiking trip in Scotland. I was completely alone, carrying only a backpack. I had an old vintage military rain poncho from the 1960s that protected me through all kinds of bad weather. I loved it. That became the starting point of the project. I began researching vintage military ponchos and then combined that research with my own Chinese cultural background.
What was that process like?
I started asking myself whether it would be possible to bring these two worlds together. Through experimentation, I realised that many traditional Chinese garments could be updated and given modern functionality to suit both contemporary life and outdoor adventure.
How did you achieve that?
I used a lot of waxed fabrics instead of traditional materials. I retained the original silhouettes and kept details such as the pockets integrated into the sleeves, which is something I particularly enjoyed.
What were you inspired by while creating the collection?
A lot of the inspiration came from moist air, wet rocks, and the moss that grows on them. I’m fascinated by those smells and textures, especially in the wild. My hometown, Suzhou in China, is also very rainy, much like London, so that feeling of dampness and humidity has always been around me. Since childhood, I’ve loved that atmosphere, and I wanted to recreate it through my fabrics. That’s one reason I used wax treatments. The wax creates a subtle wet appearance, and when you touch the fabric, it feels cool and slightly cold, just like the environment that inspired it.
How does your collection relate to your personal style?
The relationship between my collection and my personal style is very close. Essentially, I’m designing a collection for myself. My style is my collection. One thing my tutor told me that I always remember is: “Be yourself and be cool.” I thought, okay, that’s exactly what I enjoy doing – let’s do exactly that.
I’ve always liked wearing capes, robes, and oversized silhouettes. Those shapes are still relatively unusual within menswear, which is why I wanted to bring all of these elements together and create something new.
Your dream fashion collaboration?
I would love to work with Yohji Yamamoto. He’s one of my favourite designers. I love the way he uses colour and silhouette. There’s a darkness and depth to his work that really appeals to me. As he famously said, “Black is the most colourful colour.”
How about someone you’d love to dress?
I would love to dress John Lennon from The Beatles. He’s my favourite musician, and I think he was incredibly cool – a true rock-and-roll icon. I hope some elements of my style connect with that rock-and-roll spirit, that he would like what I do, because I always dreamed of becoming a rock star myself growing up, listening to his music.
In the ever-changing landscape of social media trends, where do you place yourself?
I feel very optimistic, to be honest. Today, we have so many different platforms where we can share our work and connect with people who have similar interests. If someone likes what I do, they can find me instantly. It’s much easier than in the past, when designers relied mainly on print media and had to wait a long time for feedback. Everything happens so quickly now. For example, after a fashion show, I can immediately share images online and see how people respond. It helps you understand whether your work is connecting with people, especially your target audience.
Any post or trend that has caught your attention recently?
One thing I recently saw online was an inflatable balloon system used by outdoor sports enthusiasts carrying very heavy backpacks. The balloon basically helps lift some of the weight, making it easier to carry the backpack. I thought it was a very clever idea. From a fashion perspective, it made me think about how we could incorporate similar concepts into garments or accessories to create something both functional and unexpected. It feels like a cool and completely new idea that is yet to be explored
What’s next for you, Yanhan?
My next step is applying for an MA. After that, I’m planning to launch a sub-brand in China later this year, with its own website. I think having a separate brand will allow me to focus on different customer groups and explore other kinds of designs. I’m excited to see where that journey takes me next.
Photography courtesy of Yanhan Zhou.
