March 5, 2026 |
Four portals, five warmly coloured rooms enveloping the audience, a 13th-century monk residence framing the scene. This was the magical setting for the AW26 Acne Studios show. The focus? Future legacy – the link between the distinctive narrative of the house and the defining chapters that are yet to come.
“I have a library in my mind,” said Acne co-founder and creative director Jonny Johansson ahead of the show, of “different historic moments, music references or cultural inspirations that feed the collective creation of the brand”. It is no surprise, then, that the looks presented on the coloured carpets of Collège des Bernardins were a dynamic mix of aristocratic dress codes, ’90s inspirations and Scandi minimalism. Take the biker and aviator jackets – here cropped, fitted and reinvented in punchy tones – or the sharp tailored jackets slung informally across the models’ bodies: the collection constantly tapped into preppiness, only to jump straight back into playfulness.
Silhouettes were at once precise – defined by tapered trousers and tight knee-high suede boots – and fluid, with long satin dresses draping over the boots. A similarly relaxed fit was found in the skirts and a dress printed with Paul Kooiker’s black and white portrait series of art school students – a nod to Acne’s unwavering commitment to creative collaboration. Finishing the looks: vintage-inspired eyewear with bright-hued lenses and a new single-handle bag design, as well as the house’s classic Camero.
From one look to the next, one room to another, the show weaved together a performance of heritage that has never stopped looking forward.
Photography courtesy of Acne Studios.
