January 28, 2026 |
Into the evening we go, so said Av Vattev with its AW26 collection aptly entitled Nocturne. Much like the dreamy musical compositions it’s named after, the offering – revealed as a lookbook – slips into the allure of nighttime splendour with a muted colour palette and effortlessly wearable silhouettes that will take you from day to – of course – night.
Replete with check wools, supple leathers and pinstriped matte satins, Bulgarian designer Antonio Vattev continues to take sartorial cues from the styles of the 1970s and 1990s this season. He probes at the meaning of empowerment through clothing, responding with neutral pieces that are laid back and refined, yet imbued with a discreetly rebellious sensibility by way of striking patterns and decorative flourishes.
The influence of a singular, radical talent pervades the lookbook – Rudolf Nureyev, a 20th century male ballet dancer and choreographer. Emulating his magnetism and virtuoso’s unforgettable sense of personal style, the garments contained within the relaxed series of images are draped across the body with intention, styled to show how “structure and control [can] coexist with sensuality and expression.”
At this collection’s core lies its newly-innovated tactile python print – inspired by a neutral snakeskin ensemble worn by Nureyev on The Dick Cavett Show in 1974 – seen emblazoned across leather trousers and polo shirts – great garb for getting into Berghain. Building on this, elements of the Soviet dancer’s idiosyncratic style, such as his signature close-fitted beanies, high neck knits and largely proportioned pleated track trousers seep into the collection’s visual narrative. Furthering this, a wider iteration of the silver buckled Gurkha belt reemerges as does the brand’s exemplary tailoring seen across razor-sharp blazers, buttoned structured shirts and belted jackets adorned with the brand’s beloved eye-catching hardware accents.
Captured by photographer Jo Fetto, this digital release also heralds new horizons for the London-based label. Since its inception in 2020, it has honed a sole focus on menswear, alongside a few androgynous signature pieces. Now, it introduces a fully realised womenswear selection to the mix, offering fans the most comprehensive and evolved Av Vattav vernacular yet. It’s Av Vattev for the nightcrawlers, party goers and prima ballerinas alike, man or woman, rebel or radical.
Photography courtesy of Av Vattev.
