September 13, 2025 |
Friday for the students of the New Design High School on New York’s Lower East Side was no ordinary school day. Off-White took over the space for its SS26 collection. Guests like Mary J Blige, Busta Rhymes, Honey Dijon, and Ellie the Elephant were greeted by cheering students in a spirited welcome tunnel before heading up to the rooftop runway.
When attendees made the climb, they stepped out into a pastel-coloured daydream. Against the light pinks and purples of the basketball court and a backdrop decorated with graffiti by four local artists – Daze, Lady Pink, Mast, and CES celebrating the five boroughs – Ib Kamara’s collection stretched the limits of formal wear in search of an alchemical balance with streetwear.
You could see this play out with tension between slinky sheer fabrics against more structured silhouettes and the graphic abstractions of New York. The latter were reminiscent of airbrushed shirts, and lent a casualness to more delicate dresses. Masculine uniforms were more sensual while womenswear gained a sense of business from the added shoulder pads. A soft pair of bowling brogues in cream with the perforated arrow motif and a horse-like kitten mule with a cushioned instep proved to be highlights.
It was the looks closer to how current New Yorkers dress when the fun began to be had. A denim shearling power coat paired with matching shorts made for a MJB-style dance break. Meanwhile a tie dye print that bled across suits brought to mind paint soaking onto a page. And a reappearing tool-belt now in denim hanging off the hips with the pockets pushed to the edges felt tough and rugged, all with a wink.
Photography courtesy of Off-White.
