Junya Watanabe’s AW25 collection felt like a love letter to the timeless allure of workwear. Marked by a crisp collaboration with American outerwear label Filson, the centrepiece of the collection was the Mackinaw Cruiser Jacket – an enduring classic originally crafted for forestry workers. This homage to rugged craftsmanship anchored a collection that seemed to lean more deeply into functionality than the playful eclecticism of his SS25 lineup.
Where last season danced with lighter fabrics and experimental silhouettes, this collection embraced a sturdier, more grounded spirit. Collaborations with Levi’s, Heinrich Dinkelacker, Paraboot and New Balance rounded out the rugged offering, with denim trousers, boat shoes, boots and sneakers blending seamlessly into a layered palette of practicality. Meanwhile tartan patterns, reminiscent of classic lumberjack checks, wove through the collection with a rustic charm, reinforcing the forestry-inspired aesthetic that defined the show.
Watanabe’s genius lies in his ability to transform these utilitarian staples into pieces that feel strikingly modern. He reminds us that the beauty of workwear lies in its quiet resilience, as relevant on the runway as in the woods.
Photography by Christina Fragkou.
