November 25, 2024 |
“I Love Lamp” may bring to mind the deadpan humour of 2004’s Anchorman, but for London-based demi-couturier Ellie Misner, it’s the title of her latest collection – a tongue-in-cheek homage to her lifelong fascination with, well… lamps. “Got to have a little millennial cringe in there to balance out the classiness of couture,” she jokes. More specifically, the decorative lampshades and Erté sketches that adorned her grandmother and nan’s flats respectively. (Misner usually pulls inspiration from friends and family members; she says, ‘ When I make a piece I have a muse in my head and then I design that piece around the person I’m thinking of.”)
These influences shine through in the offering, most vividly in a strapless, corseted column dress with a stiff, beaded peplum that’s dripping with pearls and shells that used to be part of an actual lampshade sourced at a carboot sale, and in the fluted lines of her impeccably tailored skirts. Misner’s own standout? A bold-shouldered, ‘Cruella’ dress in chartreuse features a “fur”-trimmed collar and sleeves crafted ingeniously from fabric scraps – making it an undeniably chic, zero-waste piece. “I’ve not really experimented with tailoring before and this piece was really special to me,” she says.
Launching her brand during Covid, Misner’s creations sit under the banner of demi-couture, or as she describes it, “a more accessible couture.” Her work combines the precision and luxury of couture techniques with a healthy dose of irreverent fun. Referencing this cheekiness, she says, “She’s chic, she’s couture but she’s definitely having fun,” adding, “I love creating beautiful clothes, but that doesn’t mean they have to be boring. Everyone should get to be a little silly!”
This makes sense considering the London-based designer is a self-proclaimed lover of camp. “I love whimsy, I love camp, but I pride myself on also making pieces beautifully,” she says, balancing her playful sensibilities with a commitment to making each piece feel unique and luxurious. “It’s important to me that when someone receives something, they feel truly gorgeous in it and it feels special,” she says. Her commitment to quality has won her a growing roster of fans, with celebrities like Julia Fox, Raye and Katy Perry (recall that crimson, bum crack-baring twinset the singer wore to the Billboard Women In Music event earlier this year), stepping out in her sculptural gowns. “I just love dressing women that love clothes, that’s the best part for me.”
At the heart of Misner’s mission lies body inclusivity, a value which she seamlessly integrates into her corset-centred design language. “Using corsetry as a base for most pieces ensures a great base and support for most body types,” she says. “My designs are adapted to whoever the muse is for the piece. If I know the girl has a certain figure, the design will aim to enhance or create a fun silhouette to showcase her best.”
“I haven’t grown up around sample sized girls so to speak, and so it doesn’t fit my life to design for women that I don’t know,” she adds.
When asked how, in her opinion, the fashion industry can foster greater inclusivity, Misner doesn’t hold back: “To be completely transparent, by trying harder. It requires more funding for smaller brands because, let’s be honest, we are doing most of the work in being inclusive yet we have the least resources.” Still, she’s optimistic. “The girls aren’t going anywhere, so they will have to create space for us eventually.”
Misner’s approach to fashion also centres on sustainability. Her pieces are made-to-order, designed to last and crafted with care to avoid overconsumption. Everything is “meant to fit beautifully, for a specific purpose, and the hope is that they last forever,” says the designer.
Going forward, Misner is focused on growing her brand without losing her passion or burning out. “I love what I do and I want to keep doing it,” she says. “My dream is to show next year at fashion week in season, so fingers crossed for that. I’d love to show in Paris or New York too – maybe give me two years for that, haha!” For now, Misner’s lighthearted yet meticulous vision will continue to catch the attention of the fash pack, serving up shapely gowns for women of all kinds.
Photography courtesy of Ellie Misner.
