There always an artist at the heart of Roksanda Ilincic’s collections. This season she referenced several, from the yellow “Christo” catwalk that snaked through the Serpentine pavilion to paint splattered, neon-splashed prints which referenced one of her favourite artists Mary Weatherford. The show opened with a pair of painter’s overalls as the designer deftly layered a new utility theme over her signature romance. There were utility shirts worn over long pleated skirts, voluminous trench coats and grand, Pierrot-collared opera capes made from pleated technical taffeta. There was a focus on daywear and modular tailoring that can be layered up and worn in different ways: “it’s very versatile,” said the designer backstage. But it wouldn’t be a Roksanda show without a big gown. Her evening looks came in iridescent “memory” fabric, their light as air volumes changing shape with every model’s step.

Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans

@roksandailincic