Ten Craves: Louis Vuitton’s Cold-Weather Collection, Byredo’s Anamalique Fragrance And More!

TEN CRAVES IS OUR ONLINE SERIES THAT ROUNDS UP ALL THE BEST PRODUCT LAUNCHES AND MUST-KNOW FASHION HAPPENINGS WEEK IN, WEEK OUT.

JOSEPH’S LEOPARD-PRINT 40TH ANNIVERSARY CAPSULE COLLECTION 

Joseph has just dropped a cosy Leopard Capsule collection to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Casablanca-born brand. In honour of Joseph Ettedgui – its infamous founder – who established the label’s first in-house ready-to-wear collection in 1983 with the vision to provide women with a contemporary luxury wardrobe exuding poise and elegance, this collection does just that. The limited-edition six piece capsule is purely knitwear focused and mimics the iconic Tricot Knitwear collection captured by Pamela Hanson in its 1988 campaign. Luxuriously crafted from a blend of cashmere and wool, it celebrates Josephl’s core principle: craftsmanship, with the designs part hand-knit and hand embroidered. We can’t wait to wrap ourselves up in these catty cosies this winter! Shop hereJoe Benham

TOGA ARCHIVES UNVEILS ITS SUBVERSIVE SS24 COLLECTION 

Toga Archive has just unveiled its deliciously subversive, hyper-feminine collection for the SS24 season, using three, authoritative words to describe the overall tone: ‘Assertive, Feminine, Approach’. Throughout the collection, traditionally feminine materials like lace and ribbons as well as rounded silhouettes are purposely juxtaposed with more rugged elements. In some places, lace is given darker, more ‘masculine’ colourings like blue and black. Elsewhere, tailored pieces are seductively exposed at the chest revealing provocative lingerie, whilst ruffled and curved silhouettes usually designed to display delicate proportions are deliberately warped to strip the garments of their feminine softness. JB   

GUESS ORIGINALS WANTS TO KNOW: ‘WHAT’S YOUR TYPE?’ 

Guess Originals has just launched its first-ever trio of gender-inclusive fragrances. The forward-thinking collection consists of three unique fragrances simply entitled Type 1, Type 2 and Type 3; each is designed with a disparate message in mind. Type 1 captures the passionate and electrifying spirit of youth with its distinct aroma built from bergamot and vetiver; Type 2, a red currant and balsam mix, boldly embodies the beauty of individuality; Type 3 boasts earthy and woody wisps of tobacco and amberwood. Defying conventional norms and reimagining boundaries, the collection aims to redefine gender norms and celebrate identity as multi-faceted, inviting individuals to embrace their true selves, expressing themselves authentically and embodying youth’s vitality. There’s a ’type’ for everybody, be it, citrus or earth or musk. What’s yours? Shop hereJB   

THE DESIGN MUSEUM LAUNCHES LUXURY TOTE BAGS DESIGNED BY NEWGEN ALUM 

As part of the Design Museum’s major exhibition Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion celebrating the British Fashion Council’s Newgen initiative’s 30th anniversary, comes the Newgen 30 Collection. For the offering, seven Newgen Alumni designers – Ahluwalia, Christopher Kane, Erdem, Giles Deacon, Halpern, Mary Katrantzou and Roksanda – have kindly donated signature prints that have been beautifully reimagined into a limited edition run of keepsakes. The hero piece is a consciously developed luxury tote manufactured by a majority female workforce in India and printed using Reach compliant non-toxic inks on sustainably sourced cotton in partnership with Bags of Ethics. From the sale of each bag, a donation goes directly to charity, supporting the next generation of young designers in the UK through the British Fashion Council Foundation and continuing to raise crucial funds. Available to purchase until February next year, the bag comes in two sizes and seven distinct colourways. Shop across luxury retailers in the UK including Selfridges, Harrods, Harvey Nichols, The Design Museum, Machine-A, Fenwick, Bags of Ethics or online at the Design Museum here. 

FENG CHEN WANG’S ADAPTABLE TEAM-UP WITH NIKE

Feng Chen Wang has teamed up with Nike for an adaptable range of cyber-sport apparel employing innovative methods of engineered artistry and personalization to break all conventions of garment construction. Through exploration of garments and reimagined staple pieces, Wang reinforces her signature methods of craftsmanship to appease diversity in her works and reimagine age and gender norms, creating technical apparel with a mashup of traditional sportswear elements. It’s about functionality, deconstruction, and modality of different personalities. “It is designed for everyone and it’s unlimited,” says Wang in a preview. “You can keep it for a long time, and wear in 10, 20 years in different ways. You can figure out your own creation.”

Inspired by Feng’s mantra “to own less is to own more,” the hero piece, the Transform Jacket, was born. The epitome of adaptability, it features removable components to evolve the jacket in more than 30 ways and to promote a more sustainably-minded lifestyle. As someone who adheres to an active lifestyle and possesses a true passion for travel, the designer was inspired to create a multifaceted item that would be more convenient to bring along on life’s journeys. “The jacket. It is all in one. I have designed ’two in one’, ’three in one’ before but this is my top-level jacket – the hero piece. You are never going to go out of fashion as it includes everything from functionality, deconstruction, all the different personalities and styles. It is designed for everyone and its unlimited. You can keep it for a long time, and wear in 10, 20 years in different ways. You can figure out your own creation and this is one of the best friend you can keep in your wardrobe forever,” the designer explains. “I think I was inspired by old people, travellers, global citizens, a group of our community. We travel a lot, but we don’t want to bring every piece we own with us during the journey. I was asking myself a question about how I can just bring one piece but create more from that one item. Based on our community, our family, how can I also have one piece but share – our jacket becoming a skirt, a boyfriend’s jacket becoming a girlfriend’s skirt, something unisex. I want to create a future lifestyle, you own one item, but you also own more.” The collection also includes a crop top, bra, and tights in cool khaki, lime green and black colourways.

The accompanying campaign, which centres around an eclectic family-style dinner feel poignant. “It’s related to our community; family is very important to me and a lot of our community,” she explains. “Family to us includes our original birth family but also our friends, relationships, teams, the community is our family. In family there is love and connection, the human connection of different generations, team connection, friend connection. This is a design philosophy I want to present to the world, how this connection comes together and how I can use my fashion design to present connection. Through this one jacket, we are all connecting, different pieces connecting and how different personality, people, nationalities, communities are all connecting together. We are connected through fashion, functionality, through this piece of fabric, connected to together, different people can have different style, create their own style, it’s all about communication. The sleeve connected to the waist, the vest connected to the bomber, the bomber connected to the skirt or pants, the shorts connected with every single piece.” The Nike x Feng Chen Wang collection is now available globally on fengchenwang.com, SNKRS and at select Nike retailers. 

HAIDER ACKERMANN TEAMS UP WITH AUGUSTINUS BADER 

Haider Ackermann has teamed up with Augustinus Bader to celebrate the five year anniversary of the skincare label’s hero products, The Rich Cream and The Cream. Ackermann, renowned for his edgy yet elegant approach to clothing design, has interpreted the classic packaging creating lustrously collectable chrome vessels that mirror his signatures – line, fluidity and futuristic materials. The one-of-a-kind partnership between the pioneering brands shows their commitment to research, innovation and sublime timeless quality, culminating in an aesthetically pleasing vessel with a functional science-based formula. The limited edition creams are available at AugustinusBader.com and select retailers. JB

GUCCI’S CHANGEMAKERS PROGRAMME LANDS IN LONDON 

Gucci’s Changemakers Programme, the luxury label’s initiative to support the next generation of fashion industry professionals, has landed in London. Following a successful run across North America, assisting over 50 non-profit organisations with grants and providing scholarships to over 70 students, the programme has partnered with one of UK’s top-ranking fashion educational institutions – LCF (London College of Fashion), part of UAL (University of the Arts London). The aim of the programme is to offer multidisciplinary scholarships to new students who encounter financial restrictions into higher education, providing them with the essential creative tools and platforms to further improve their budding fashion careers and dreams. The inaugural scholars participating in the programme include Joy Buckley (BA (Hons) Fashion Public Relations and Communication), Anissa-Louisa Kerbouche (BA (Hons) Fashion Journalism and Content Creation), and Alicia Grilli (BA (Hons) Fashion Buying and Merchandising). JB

SAUL NASH GOES TO ICELAND FOR ITS AW23 CAMPAIGN FILM 

An extension of its revered autumn/winter 2023 collection, Saul Nash’s latest campaign short – directed by longstanding collaborator FX Goby and styled by Elgar Johnson – is set against the frigid and ashen backdrop of Kalta in Iceland. Perfectly mirroring the storyline of the collection – which explores social barriers to expensive winter trips through ski-inspired streetwear – the video starts by shadowing a group of young men walking through Hoxton. Centered around a dancing protagonist who is transported onto Kalta’s snowy plains, the offering highlights the contrast between urban life and personal fantasy. Characters don key pieces from the collection – developed alongside the Woolmark Company following Nash’s win in 2022 – such as the PrimaLoft-blended Merino wool tracksuit, a seamless compression top and double-faced jacquard sweaters, with the natural palette of the garments fitting perfectly into the film’s organic environment. A beautiful compliment to an already acclaimed collection, discover more about the offering here. Bella Koopman

EMPORIO ARMANI’S LATEST SUSTAINABLE COLLECTION 

If you long for the whimsical adventures enjoyed over the summer, chin up, because Emporio Armani’s newest Sustainable Collection is almost in town. Inspired by the ocean, the collection is bringing refreshment to the autumn/winter season to break you out of busy routines. Nautical themes are stylishly complimented with lively and vivid marine tones. From ultramarine to navy, coral yellow to sunset orange, it’s a range certain to brighten up your closet this winter. The collection extends on Armani’s eco-conscious values and presents items made with bio-based and recycled materials of certified origin. Sustainability is arriving in tandem with Emporio Armani’s AW23 Sustainable Collection. Amalia Aleyeva

BYREDO’S ANIMALIQUE EAU DE PARFUM

The latest Eau de Parfum from Byredo taps into primal instinct. Dubbed Animalique, Ben Gorham set out to explore our intrinsic nature – “It’s the concept that a spirit animal resides beneath the intricate layers of our truest selves,” he relays in a press release. And indeed, we contain multitudes so Animalique is a fragrance for the “many-selved”, the “real freaks who never let their freak flag fly”. Concocted with a dazzling layer of sparkling citrus top notes that metamorphose with warm sensual florals, before taking the final plunge into the feral atmosphere of suede, amber and tobacco leaf, it’ll truly get you in touch with your wild side.

The accompanying Animalique campaign depicts an androgynous humanoid lizard who somehow exemplifies the exuberance and extravagance of New York City nightlife in its ‘90s-era heyday. It’s the feeling of euphoric dancing under disco lights, of biological, illogical attraction, of being carried away by the great sweep of vibration. The brand comments, “Identity is malleable and Animalique is all about embracing the freedom to shapeshift.” AA

THOM BROWNE AND ANDREW BOLTON DIVE INTO THE PUBLISHING BIZZ’ 

Does your coffee table décor need a bit of a boost? Thom Browne is here to deliver. Marking the 20th anniversary of the eponymous label, the first ever comprehensive monograph charting the designer’s impressive career has just been released by publisher Phaidon. With quite the crack team behind it – photography was by Bristol-born Johnny Dufort and curation by Andrew Bolton, Browne’s partner and Wendy Yu curator at The Met’s Costume Institute – the 420-page odyssey showcases over 200 of the visionary’s best looks. Renowned for reimagining the modern uniform and an avant-garde approach to suiting, the book delves into the watershed moments of Browne’s journey to becoming a celebrated industry darling. Embodying the innovative energy of his clothes, the book contains over 40 gatefolds, 350 illustrations and unseen behind-the-scenes imagery from past runways. Designed by revered Amsterdam-based graphic designer Irma Boom, the book stays true to the label’s established codes, with translucent vellum pages featuring its signature four stripes with a cover in the expected stone grey. Grab your copy here. BK

LOEWE’S BOTANICAL RAINBOW CAMPAIGN

Loewe’s new Botanical Rainbow campaign explores the connection between Loewe Perfumes and the natural world. Shot by longtime brand collaborator Tyler Mitchell and film director Albert Moya, and starring actors Úrsula Corberó and Greta Lee alongside actor and brand ambassador Stéphane Bak, it evokes a dramatic and emotional conversation about the ways human emotion and Mother Earth entwine to demonstrate the symbiotic relation we share. Surrounded by botanic arrangements in the style of Japanese ikebana and collaged still-life compositions created by Netherlands-based artist Nicola Kloosterman, key scents from the Loewe Botanical Rainbow collection appear in dialogue with the campaign’s protagonists in a nod to the line’s sensuous character, designed to be shared by partners. Loewe Aire Anthesis, its new unisex fragrance, appears with Greta Lee who strikes a series of ethereal poses. The masculine Esencia EDP and the feminine Solo Ella EDP are paired with Stéphane and Úrsula’s characters, and the redesign and relaunch of the Madrid-inspired luxury collection, Un Paseo por Madrid (which was rebottled in a new flask), is highlighted. It’s a diverse range of collectable and complementary scents, designed to capture unique personalities, moods and emotions, captured in a visual kaleidoscope of feeling, “from the bold to the serene”. Shop here. AA

LOUIS VUITTON COMBATS THE COLD WEATHER WITH NEW DROP

A familiar chill is in the air, but there’s no need to worry because Louis Vuitton has got ya’ covered. The French luxury house has recently dropped a new swathe of menswear goodies fit to fight that autumn blues, with crewnecks, puffer jackets and overshirts all on offer. Centering around adaptability and function, each piece has been specifically designed to hint at both casual and formal dressing. Whilst Pharrell preps for his upcoming show in Hong Kong, the interim collection was created by the brand’s Studio Prêt-à-Porter Homme, the body responsible for ready-to-wear releases not set for the runway.

Intending to champion seasonal transition, the drop doesn’t shy away from summery hues like a cobalt blue suit or striped shorts, whilst keeping customers covered with shearling trimmed scarves and hooded windbreakers. In classic Louis Vuitton style, the LV logo is frequently embossed onto pockets, bags and occasionally monogrammed onto matching sets. Explore the collection here. BK

SOPHIA WEBSTER’S 10TH ANNIVERSRY TOME

Looking for a new fashion-centric book to add to your coffee table collection? Look no further; Sophia Webster’s new hardback – Oh My Gosh, I Love Your Shoes – is the perfect addition. Celebrating 10 years of the eponymous brand and as well as the leading British shoe designer’s love of footwear, it charts her early days as a creative with a young family and turning her adoration of illustration into a renowned brand. Accompanied with gorgeous, high-resolution imagery, it pulls inspiration from the likes of the Spice Girls and Grayson Perry, and includes 365 sketches of Webster’s favourite designs and how they’re brought to life. This one is for the footwear aficionados. Shop here. JB

THE LOEWE X ON CLOUDTILT

In a new collaboration with On, Loewe has released a shoe that’s made to move: The Cloudtilt.

Featuring a silhouette with sequentially collapsing Clouds that adapt to the wearer’s movement for seamless weight transfer from heel to toe, its the first shoe in On’s lifestyle range to incorporate CloudTec® Phase: a computer-generated midsole technology that offers cushioning with fewer components for a super smooth, ultra-lightweight step as if you were truly walking on clouds. Continuing the brands’ shared exploration of craft and tech lead approach, it features knitted sock construction and speed laces, as well as crossover branding, an EVA foam outer sole and an engineered mesh upper made from 99 percent recycled polyester. What’s really special, is that the Cloudtilt is fine-tuned using “Finite Element Analysis” software that simulates walking stress on the legs and feet. Coming in all white, all black, lime green, khaki green, forever blue, purple rose and all navy colourways, they’re the perfect kicks to carry you through the coming season. (A second drop in January 2024 will feature sand, wild rose, slate grey, wild rose and beet red colourways so keep your eyes peeled). Shop the first drop here. AA

ED HARDY’S BRAND NEW BLACK LINE 

Ed Hardy’s latest collection – Black Line – gets the premium treatment. The debut online-exclusive offering includes updated classics, from the brand’s best-selling and most popular styles bringing elevated fabrications, materials and craftsmanship into the fold. Inspired by Don Ed Hardy’s iconic artworks, embroidery depicting brightly coloured and tonal monochromatic dragons and eagles. Key pieces include selvedge denim jeans, classic embroidered bomber jackets, tonal crew neck sweaters, graphic T-shirts and 100 percent cupro cargo pants. For women, there’s also a selection of diamanté adorned pieces and seductive slip dresses.

The Ed Hardy Black Line collection is out now, with additional drops coming throughout the rest of October and November. Shop hereJB

MAX MARA CELEBRATES 10 YEARS OF THE TEDDY BEAR COAT 

2023 marks 10 years of Max Mara’s Teddy Bear Coat, the perfect companion for braving the winter weather year in, year out. It’s fuzzy, it’s soft, it’s classic; it’s the hug you never want to end; and to mark the anniversary, a new Sparkling Teddy Coat in camel and white colourways has just made its debut. The launch also caters to younger fashion lovers, come in a Mini style for 5-12-year-old girls, with matching earmuffs, mittens, and hats with teddy bear ears. Too cute!

Max Mara has also launched a Max Mara Teddy Ten and Teddy Kids Pop-Up inside Harrods that’s open to the public until November 15. Taking place on the ground floor at Harrods, the interactive Teddy Pop-Up will allow customers to purchase special edition products, and children visiting the Kids Teddy Pop-Up space will be able to interact with a special Teddy social mirror and experiential pathway.

The cocooning Max Mara Teddy Bear Coats and special edition products are available to purchase in-store at Max Mara on Old Bond Street, and at Harrods’ Max Mara Teddy Ten and Teddy Kids Pop-Ups until November 15. Shop here. AA

JW ANDERSON AND A.P.C. DEBUT JOSEPH BEUYS INSPIRED LINK-UP

JW Anderson and A.P.C. have come together for a new artistic collection inspired by the late Joseph BeuysI Like America and America Likes Me performance in May 1974. The German artist organized the performance as a sign of protest against the Vietnam War and showcased himself being transported in an ambulance wrapped in a felt blanket during a trip from Dusseldorf to New York. On that day a statement was made – “to not see America… and to be isolated from the outside world,”. Afterwards Beuys was locked in the René Block Gallery for three days with a coyote.

Obviously it’s not always necessary to interpret Beuys’ work in a literal way, but the inspiration behind his designs lies in the rather rough wool of the duffle coat that subtly recalls the felt. Generally, however, the collection revolves around two silhouettes: the first, more fitted and hard-rock, with elements of black denim and biker styles: the second, more hippie-esque, with looser shapes and multicoloured knits. The collection offers all the must haves items of the season: hand-knitted sweaters, American jersey for the T-shirts and A.P.C.’s historic duffle coat. Shop here. AA

SHAYNE OLIVER RELEASES EROTIC COLLECTION WITH PORNHUB 

Shayne Oliver and PornHub have, yet again, come together to release a clothing collection that is just as provocative as it is disruptive. The naughty little collab is spearheaded by Oliver’s innovation division of his group, Anonymous Club, that’s purpose is to birth radical art and artifacts to disrupt conventions, infiltrate the mainstream and reshape popular culture. Oliver’s second link-up with the adult entertainment platform – they hooked-up for Shayne’s spring 2017 Hood By Air fashion show – the collection champions discussions surrounding overexposure and embracing vulnerability. The Shayne Oliver Group and PornHub collaboration fuses fashion, identity and self-discovery, inviting its wearers to engage in a dialogue in the intersection of creativity, contemplation and consumption. Shop the collection hereJB

ROBYN LYNCH LAUNCHES DIREST-TO-CONSUMER CORE COLLECTION 

Straying from her usual menswear opus, Robyn Lynch’s new ‘Direct-To-Consumer’ Core Collection arrives in an inclusive range of sizes to be worn by everyone and anyone, including for the first time ever, children. Featuring motifs that nod the designer’s Irish heritage, Lynch salutes the Emerald Isle, with a series of basic tees, trousers, shorts, jumpers/hoodies and other wardrobe necessities. The effortlessly wearable pieces display the brand’s signature Eire motif and logo with rich embroidered thread at the centre of the chest. Get your hands on the Gaelic collection hereJB

Top Image: photography courtesy of Guess Originals.

@10magazine

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