Issey Miyake: Ready-to-wear AW20
Two seasons in and Issey Miyake designer, Satoshi Kondo, is already gaining a reputation as a showman. His debut for the label last season, with skateboarding models and clothes falling onto models bodies from above provided one of the viral
Balenciaga: Ready-to-wear AW20
The level of detail that goes into a Balenciaga show is astonishing. You don’t just see it with your eyes but experience it with your whole body. You are immersed. You feel it – the pounding primal club beats of
Haider Ackermann: Ready-to-wear AW20
Wow! We all know Haider’s good but he reached for new heights with this show. Haider Ackermann’s signature is out-of-this-world elegance. His models always have an alien-like, replicant beauty as if they were grown and perfected in a lab. Bella
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood: Ready-to-wear AW20
Everyone loves a Westwood corset. Vintage ones change hands for small fortunes on Pechuga Vintage but there’s not enough supply to satisfy the demand. So it was good to see Andreas Kronthaler load his Vivienne Westwood catwalk with many fine
Comme des Garçons: Ready-to-wear AW20
Was it a greatest hits collection? Surely not. Rei Kawakubo characterises herself as a “perpetual futurist”, not a designer who indulges in nostalgia. Yet the references to past Comme des Garçons collections were plenty but nothing was reproduced literally. The
Noir Kei Ninomiya: Ready-to-wear AW20
A Noir a show is pure theatre. It transports you from a rainy Paris morning to a place of wild imaginings. Kei Ninomiya’s starting point is always the colour black (hence the brand’s name). This season was a meditation on
Junya Watanabe: Ready-to-wear AW20
A red light. Silence. Then the show started. We knew what the theme was – an image of Debbie Harry on the invite had given it away. Junya Watanabe paid tribute to this punk, new wave icon with an icon
Loewe: Ready-to-wear AW20
Loewe is at home in the art gallery. The chic international art crowd wear Loewe clothes inspired by the artists and their subjects hanging on their walls. Not that it looks historical. Jonathan Anderson channeled infanta grandeur for today. Dresses
Rick Owens: Ready-to-wear AW20
From the very first look – an asymmetric fishtail knit dress that exposed one whole leg from hip to heel, paired with glam rock platforms, it was clear that this Rick Owens womenswear show would build on his stellar men’s
Paco Rabanne: Ready-to-wear AW20
Julien Dossena took Paco Rabanne’s signature chainmail right back to source. Not the hedonistic 1960s but to the medieval crusaders who wore it in battle. Showing in the vaulted crypt of the Conciergerie, he sent out chainmail-clad women wearing metal
Off-White: Ready-to-wear AW20
The Off-White brand is about more than just clothes, said Virgil Abloh. Not only has he brought a much needed diversity to fashion and made streetwear the most marketable commodity in the industry but he has also brought a whole
Hermès: Ready-to-wear AW20
Horsey references are never far away at Hermès. In the show space, a figure-of-eight dressage configuration catwalk was marked by a forest of brightly coloured upended showjumping poles (which coincidentally echo the packaging on newly launched Hermès lipsticks). The collection
Balmain: Ready-to-wear AW20
There’s nothing quite like a Balmain mass model moment, when 20 fierce women storm the runway in matching navy overcoats and huge rectangular shades. It’s the fiercest flash mob you will ever see. Olivier Rousteing is committed to stadium level
Maison Margiela: Ready-to-wear AW20
Creative, inventive, unfettered: Isn’t this what a fashion show is supposed or be? John Galliano employs a trickle down creative method. He experiments wildly with new ideas in his artisanal collections and then applies them to the more accessible ready-to-wear.
Mugler: Ready-to-wear AW20
In the post #MeToo era, sex has been largely absent from the catwalks. Conventional sexy codes no longer reflect the lives we live or the values we hold. Rather than grapple with the question of modern sexual expression, many designers