Peter Pilotto: Ready-to-wear AW16
There's mention in the press notes of Nordic symbolism. A frosty thread of it even. And to be honest this did feel rather frosty. The Peter Pilotto lady is a cool lady. To put it in Nordic terms, she is
Pringle of Scotland: Ready-to-wear AW16
A new season, a new designer. For her Pringle of Scotland debut, Fran Stringer, the new womenswear design director, "wanted to find a way of celebrating the brand's history and embracing its heritage, that was relevant to the way women
Erdem: Ready-to-wear AW16
Erdem harked back to the golden age of glamour this season, to the heyday of Bette Davies, even opening with a soundtrack of one of her many monologues from All About Eve. Set against a backdrop of a faded mansion
Roksanda: Ready-to-wear AW16
You know those harlequin marionettes, that slightly sad clown? Well, Roksanda was kind of like that, but through a prism of 70's occult. There was a slight mystical, almost witchy feel to this in the star and moon prints and
Belstaff: Ready-to-wear AW16
This season Belstaff, and we'll refer to the press notes here, has "turned its attention to great polar expeditions. Inspired by renowned female pioneers
Alexander McQueen: Ready-to-wear AW16
The best way to describe Alexander McQueen's return to the London Fashion Week schedule would be fairytale sex dripping in butterflies and trimmed in marabou. There was a strong sexual undertone to this, but it was romantic, not aggressive. Delicate
Paul Smith: Ready-to-wear AW16
For his latest collection Paul Smith has chosen to look to his youth. Hence the choice of location, the Royal College of Physicians, designed by Sir Denys Lasdun in 1964, a reflection of the modern architecture that inspired him in
Vivienne Westwood: Ready-to-wear AW16
You can't have a Vivienne Westwood show without a slogan, and so, without further ado, "intellectuals unite. We have no choice between a green economy and mass extinction". To be honest, we have no idea about these things, but here,
Topshop Unique: Ready-to-wear AW16
There's something about the opening strains of the Rolling Stones Gimmie Shelter that always makes you think of a gritty New York side street from a Martin Scorsese film. And at Topshop Unique clothes lived up to the image. Cropped and
Mary Katrantzou: Ready-to-wear AW16
It opened with Dolly Parton. Both musically and in terms of the fashions. Its possible that the Dolly reference may not have been as apparent without the sound of Dolly, but either way, this was Dolly. Dolly on crack. According
Anya Hindmarch: Ready-to-wear AW16
For her latest collection Anya Hindmarch has decided to explore pixilation and colour, or too quote from the press release, "the building blocks of digital design", resulting in a show that poses the question, do computers dream when they sleep?
Margaret Howell: Ready-to-wear AW16
You always know what you'll get with Margaret Howell. If it's the perfect basic you're after she'll always deliver. Not to make her sound boring or anything, it just makes a nice change to see clothes that function as clothes
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi: Ready-to-wear AW16
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi yesterday morning was all about volume. Extreme volume. A sort of grunge princess volume. You could literally lose a person in these proportions. Heavy wools are covered in painterly roses and spliced with shiny, light reflecting organzas
House of Holland: Ready-to-wear AW16
This season Henry draws from "two of the greatest party decades of the 20th century-1920's vs 1970's. The look of Lori Maddox with the inherent rebellion and sexual freedom heralded by 20s flapper girls. Good time glam rock groupies". Which
Simone Rocha: Ready-to-wear AW16
There's something to be said for having a signature look, especially a strong recognisable one, one that you manage to reinterpret from season to season, yet remains unmistakably you. And that is something that Simone Rocha has. All her hallmarks