Editor’s like: “Will you write about your uniform? And I’m like: “Eugh!” And she’s like: “Yeah.” And I’m like: “Dreadful!” Below, then, a word-spill of me and my shopping. Also known as an unforgivable stream of caffeine-fuelled insider clothes-chat that’s as boring as I am.
CAGOULE PIG
Here’s a conversation that never took place but could have:
“How many cagoules do you actually own?”
Me: “Last count, 27.”
“Do you have favourites?”
Me: “There’s definitely a ‘Sunday best’ – the black Prada nylon one with zip-front pocket and tie-pull waist. It’s the ‘Frank Ocean at the Met Ball’ one but it’s not padded. And I bought mine before him by the way.”
“Which designer do you wear the most?”
Me: “People ask: ‘What religion are you?’ And I say ‘CofG – Church of Comme des Garçons: Homme Plus, Homme Deux, Junya Watanabe and SHIRT’. Pop a lo-carb wafer on my tongue and I’ll inhale a bottle of altar wine. Just pull back the curtain on my cagoule confessional box and see.’”
NYLON THOT
Here’s another boring cagoule fact for all my fellow Junya-technical stans: recently, I’ve been back into cagoule Look 9 from AW18: the khaki one with hi-vis placket [see picture on the previous page]. Underneath, I wear a bright orange Jil Sander cagoule bought some time, I think, in the late 1990s. I can’t be any more specific, as, to be honest, that decade is all a bit of a blur (and a Blur). This is then layered: Sunny-D-orange Jil under zip-front khaki Junya. Think Comme des Marmalade showerproof sandwich.
*Just a thought: you know those people who really have a go at getting the very last and tiniest bits of yoghurt out of the pot? They reeeeally really go for it? On and on they dig, waggling their little spoons around, making a noise. That’s me. But cagoules instead.
#CARDIGANCORE
A cardigan is like a drug to me: my very own legal wardrobe-high.
That Undercover, oversized, three-button-front beauty in Harrods “SHOP!” That prize-winning Nanamica number on Grailed: “SNATCH!” That mohair nanny-job with diamanté buttons in Help the Aged: “EXCELLENT!” Cardigans – all sorts – we have a connection.
A neuro-modulator, probably in the forebrain, has rewired itself somewhere along my rather extensive shopping timeline to create a kind of “add-to-bag” knitwear reward pathway. Subject’s brain sees cardigan/subject’s brain releases dopamine/subject shops. I’m like a bee. The cardigan is the flower.
JEANZZZZZ
How long have you got to talk about jeans because Johnny Big-Yawn, here, has days and days and it’s got to a point in my uniform life where I’ve gone beyond “jean nerd” to “jean knobhead”. Here’s some proper denim knobhead care/advice. Treat your jeans – the best ones, the ones with the perfect colour/wash/fit – like your dirty best friend. My jeans: my perfect jeans, certainly this year’s, are from Korean brand Outstanding & Co. I’ve worn them just about every day (when I’m not wearing my perfect chinos, see below) for months on end and never washed them. You shouldn’t wash great denim. Denim fact.
To be honest, as I look down and sniff, the ones I’m wearing now are on the turn. Today’s honk is an exquisite up-sick of engine oil and horse box but mainly sprouts and toast. Sprouts on toast with horse box.
COCK SURE
We’ve all heard of Big Dick Energy: the absolute and unwavering confidence that comes with having a really substantial pee-pee in your underpants. Big Coat Energy is the cold-weather, on- show, same-thing. A Big Girthy Coat says: “I’m rich because I look rich”; it also says “I’ve made it!” It’s the gold Rolex, the plasma-screen TV and the SUV with added tech-y bits.
Heat-sealed seams = an extra inch
Gortex = girthy
Goose down + Gortex = disturbingly girthy (eggs included)
It’s surely no coincidence that the terms Big Coat, Big Car and Big Cock share the same opening letters. The Universe, clearly, does have a lavatorial sense of humour.
CAMEL CHINOS: AN INTROSPECTION
But! They have to be the right camel. Not dun. Or dung. Or that brown-y camel: camel poo? It’s standard issue, American army only, camel. And they’re square-ish and wide-ish.
They’re probably not anything over 19″ on the hem; don’t mess around with 16″. I’ve been there: not worth it. The hem has to cover the top half of your shoe or sneaker and sit, just so. The fabric should have weight enough to hold and be neat, although I’m up for breaking my own rules in summer with a lighter-gauge cotton. That’s when a hem can move around, maybe even flap a little. And especially with a turn-up (strictly 1″), just like my Junya chinos. Thems my chino rules.
SCARF FACE
By the time you read this… I say read, I mean “take a cursory glance at”, we’ll be in what designers call “winter/spring” and that means scarf weather: here are three ways I wear a scarf.
1. Twice round the neck and tuck in each end to finish in a circle. Tartan is best. Two different tartans wrapped together even better. Think: what would Melanie Ward at Dior Men do?
2. Daks’ Jura lambswool neatly folded into back pocket of jeans. Basic bitch, hot boy with top off at an after-hours club circa 1996 territory, this. “What you looking at?”
3. Outside and under: this is a good one to up your Big Coat Energy even further. The best coat designers know a fat, down-filled hood is always the coolest: but it must sit up to attention. Zip your coat all the way to top and thread a scarf around the neck to sit over the coat and under the hood. Tie the scarf in a knot at the front. The hood should now stick up, out and at an angle. It just looks better.
I UPPED THE ICK. AND I LIKED IT
Think of this counterintuitive approach to dressing like rewilding your garden. It’s adding back the “weeds” you removed in the first place to make the garden better. The seductive, perfect planting: left to meadow.
Now take the above and think: wardrobe.
Bringing some “ick” (thank you TikTok for that beauty) into your uniform is a challenging way to reset your dress code.
Here’s my daily look: I love my Prada navy wool crewneck jumper – love it. I wear it with dark selvedge jeans (see previous page) and navy New Balance 991s plus a crisp white Sunspel T-shirt. You can just about see the neck of the T-shirt under the Prada navy blue jumper. Very chic, very understated, very, well, untouchable. That minimal, mid-’90s Jil-Helmut-Prada axis worn now and untouchable.
STILL AWAKE?
Well, one day I looked in the mirror – while wearing said untouchable uniform – and thought: do I actually like this very balanced, very “cool” look? Isn’t it a bit… smug? And then the panic set in: am I too old? Am I too full of myself? (Yes). Am I too “unbothered” by fashion, even though I work in fashion, which, as we all know, actually means I’m reeeeallly bothered by fashion. On and on it went.
So I decided to start changing bits here and there and swapped (this is hardly revolutionary but bear with me) my white Sunspel T-shirt for a faded, knackered brown – BROWN! – T-shirt from god knows where or even when.
“Big deal!” I hear you cry. But my perfect formula, based on that aforementioned all-powerful, minimal ’90s designer fashion axis I can’t be bothered to type again, was now… broken!
And. And! It looked bad, like, really really bad. In fact, it not only looked bad. It felt bad.
And – shock, horror, woman in corset faints – that, me-feeling-bad, weirdly, felt quite good. That’s right: I felt the fashion-ick. And I liked it.
Perfect: ruined. Blind faith: questioned. My failsafe wardrobe formula: ick. And I liked it. *Voice from stage left: “That’s one weird kid you’ve got there, Mrs Gray.”
YOUR BONUS SUNDAY SUPPLEMENT SIDEBAR
Can I do ick-fashion? Answer: yes. Just learn to embrace the initial… ick-urk. Think: What crimes would Princess Anne commit with Prada? How would Edgar Allen Poe do “unsafe” hygge? And, can I layer Frédéric Malle with Lynx Africa? All “wrong”. Yet all completely excellent. Ask Rei Kawakubo and Martin Margiela; ask JW Anderson: there’s a reject box of “ways to wear”, which are neither pleasant nor nice and oftentimes unforgivably ugly. But then we all know what Mrs Prada did with ugly. Ick is the “not-nice” and the not-nice can be liberating. Put simply, knowing what works for you isn’t necessarily better.
Portrait by Jason Lloyd-Evans. Taken from Issue 57 of 10 Men – NEW, DAILY, UNIFORM – out now. Order your copy here.