KNWLS is making a whole lotta’ noise with its AW23 offering; an electric collection fit for a femme fatale. Aptly named Noise, it’s a more mature range than what we’ve seen before from creative director duo Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault, whose usual opus is reserved only for the slickest of provocateurs. It’s a touch more tempered and demure, but don’t fret, Noise certainly isn’t for the faint of heart either: it’s utilitarian and provocative, hitting that It-girl note right in its sweet spot. Slick reptilian separates and croc embossed co-ords are underscored by oversized cybergoth knits and ruched chiffon leggings, bringing in an air of dangerous femininity. Graphic mesh gowns are printed with defensive fauna – prickly burrs that sprout from serrated vines. Fluffy mohair knit dresses evoke modern day flapper-core in a shaggy brushed black knit fabric and fraternise with second-skin long-sleeve tees, enveloping the body like gentle armour. Two-tone washed leather trench coats are belted and corset-cut moto jackets are disrupted by ferocious matching micro minis. A fuzzy lemon-yellow v-neck knit with its matching kawaii-style cat-ear beanie never looked so lush.
Presented through a scaled back series of images as opposed to a club-ready catwalk, the subdued assortment is the result of internal restructuring and a whole slew of intoxicating projects that, tucked just around the corner, are not only vying to rear their pretty little heads, but are set to be revealed soon. So while totally tough, the threads are actually rather low-key – moody and uncomplicated dipped in simultaneous high-octane sexiness. “This season we’re focused on looking at how our muses and customers wear the clothes in different ways, presenting new shapes, textures and commercial propositions for KNWLS. Creating our own noise,” Knowles and Arsenault wrote in the collections notes. This isn’t just an evolution of the South London label, it’s a revolution.
Photography courtesy of KNWLS.