A sublime exploration of the “human fragility and innovation co-exist in hospitals, clinics, laboratories”, Kiko Kostadinov’s point of departure for the SS25 menswear season was one of abstract thought. These spaces – which Kostadinov describes as “sanctuaries” – are often laden with a blend of fear and hope and dance on the edges of past and future, regeneration and degeneration.
The garments he sent down the runway echoed the paradoxes of intimacy and protection, with Kostadinov pushing boundaries through innovative silhouettes and unexpected material combinations. In many ways a study in contrasts, there were soft, billowing fabrics juxtaposed with structured, almost armour-like pieces, reflecting the delicate balance between vulnerability and strength.
There were lab coat-inspired jackets reimagined with avant-garde precision, and trousers that mimicked the sterility of surgical scrubs but were elevated through meticulous tailoring and bold detailing like cell-inspired graphic prints. The palette was a soothing medley of whites, blues, and muted greys, punctuated by the occasional burst of clinical green or sterile stainless steel silver.
Accessories played a pivotal role, with face masks and gloves recontextualised as high-fashion statements, blurring the lines between necessity and style. Footwear took a cue from orthopaedic designs, yet was unmistakably contemporary, providing the perfect foundation for Kostadinov’s vision of the modern man.
The offering wasn’t just a display of well-made fashion, but a thought-provoking narrative that left attendees contemplating the profound beauty inherent in their most vulnerable moments.
Photography courtesy of Kiko Kostadinov.
