Fendi: Couture AW23

Like life itself, it was all about the jewellery at Fendi. Kim Jones haute couture show marked the launch of Delfina Delettrez’s first fine jewellery for the house that bears her name, and it was a debut worth celebrating. “The logo is my main source of inspiration, playing with these geometrical but also emotional ways. I’m emotionally attached to this double F, as if my alphabet was composed of only one letter,” she said in a preview. Wearing black gloves, she handled colliers, bracelets and rings forged in the organic industrial shapes that embody her aesthetic. Discreet, interlocking diamond-covered Fs made up necklaces that had digital, futuristic sensibility about them, which was pretty mind-blowing. In the show held in a marbled box erected within the Palais Brongniart to the operatic might of Klaus Nomi, Delettrez’ jewellery graced statuesque gowns by Jones draped and wrapped and purified in expression. “It’s the idea of the silhouette being nothing but everything at the same time,” he said. The shimmer of the diamonds eventually travelled into the garments themselves, creating explosions of sparkle rendered in powdery pastels. They were wrapped in knitted corsets that set a tactile tone for the show reflected in a series of hyper-soft volumes that underlined Jones’ focus on comfort, even in haute couture. “When girls go out, they want to feel as comfortable and gorgeous as possible,” he said. Diamonds, comfort and a full Fendi wardrobe… what more could a girl ask for?

Photography courtesy of Fendi.


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