Emporio Armani’s AW23 menswear show was ready for take off. Packed with turbulent tailoring, comfortable cardigans with matching gilets, oversized T-shirts and sleek wool jumpsuits, an air of adventure and boundless elegance emerged as Armani’s men marched around its Via Bergognone rotunda show space. On the floor was a blown-up map of Milan, with the central points marked by a red dot, like an atlas observed from a bird’s eye view. The conceit was clear; aptly named, The View from Above, it was an edit that paid tribute to the 1930s era of aviation.
Akin to Mr. Armani’s recognisable style, a refined yet relaxed style emerged with precious, now-and-forever garments to effortlessly enrich the everyday and the evening alike. Unfolding at first with a firm proposal of wool coats, trench coats, double-breasted pea coats, vintage-style blouson bombers and flowing faux-fur lined outerwear worn with straight cropped trousers. This was followed by an athletic EA7 interlude. Altitude achieved, goggle-like sunglasses perched on old-fashioned aviator caps bacame the nucleus of the collection, while metallic glints were reminiscent of aeroplanes and their hangars.
Elsewhere, harnessed all-leather looks took flight, offering us a taste of laid-back rebellion. The suiting, on the other hand, was quintessentially Emporio Armani: exquisite and sophisticated, yet subtly defiant, with a bit of innovation and neo-styling mixed in, and erected in Prince of Wales and houndstooth materials. As a sartorial interpreter of business elegance as well as daily recreation, the suit proposed an amalgamation of wrap-around blazers and baggy pants to reflect the contemporary versatility of the ensemble. Boasting exceptional manual tailoring, there were also lustrous tuxedos in velvet or swathed in sequins and dripping in crystals – perfect for your next black-tie outing.
As the silhouettes progressed, fruity hues of purple, red and geranium pink were juxtaposed by inky blacks, moving the chromatic panorama from neutral ‘greiges’, beiges, caramel and rust to flamboyant flurries and back again. We hope you enjoyed your flight with Emporio Armani airlines! Come again soon.
Photography courtesy of Emporio Armani.
