September 26, 2026 |
Demna has found his Gucci groove. He took a year to study and research his ideas – a luxury in today’s hyper-speed fashion world. The collections he’s produced so far are all pieces in a bigger jigsaw, but SS27 is, he said, “my complete personal vision for the brand.” 12 months of research led him to one conclusion: “Gucci stands for being rooted in the desire to belong to a more glamorous world, and in the audacity to make that world in your own image.” His Gucci is aspirational, but he’s not presenting just one version of desire. He’s speaking to a broad church, and whatever part of the Gucci congregation you come from, the brand stands for “luxury that wants to be seen.”
Demna’s Gucci is also great theatre. The show was set in a vast, fully merchandised replica of the new boutique concept he will begin rolling out next month. And who had come to shop? Inspired casting saw his multi-generational models get into a glorious array of characters: Candice Swanepoel played the girl who knows she’s got the best body in the world, showing it off in a glitzy crystal mini dress. Rosie Huntington-Whiteley embodied the rich bitch in a huge, fluffy shearling coat, cinched at the back with an oversized horsebit. On a fake-tanned model played a WAG in a body-con leather mini dress. “Sexy is easier for me,” Demna admitted, but said he pushed himself out of his comfort zone and made a special study of posh dress codes: “I cannot base my whole vision on the moneyed, snobby fashion glamour.” He forced himself to examine posh dress codes but described his version of them as “broken bourgeoisie.”
There were equestrian princesses in jodhpurs and riding boots, a wealthy grandma in a chic belted trench coat with its collar popped, a trophy wife in a prim tweed skirt suit and eccentric, punky Sloanes in pleated tartan kilts worn with rugby shirts and oversized leather bombers. He even drafted in real-life aristos and socialites (Poppy Delevingne, Olympia of Greece, Sabine Getty) to wear them. The men were equally characterful. Slick, Italian playboys swaggered in ankle-flashing trousers and driving loafers worn (of course) with no socks. There were off-duty hedge funders in white jeans, polo shirts and waxed jackets, sexy, sleazy gigolos in shrunken bomber jackets, punky club kids, their hips cinched with wide belts with three horsebit closures, and boys in broad-shouldered power suits, their eyes ringed with black eyeliner as if they’d been clubbing after work.
“I want Gucci to be ‘a place where those who appear to have nothing in common can meet, connect and inspire one another. Because Gucci is a space of possibility, a place where anyone can be whoever they choose.’”
Demna called this show “The Shop” and had his models peruse the shelves and display cabinets as they walked past. All marble walls, plush couches and dark wood cladding, it was fully stocked with the AW26 collection and pieces from all four of his past Gucci collections. One VIC was overheard enquiring about the products on display – apparently, orders were being taken on the front row.
It was a bold idea. Demna, who was brought in to boost sales at Kering’s flagship brand, addressed the question of what makes us shop head-on. His answer: exciting product for every type of customer, from the conservative to the wild. There was so much to buy: those splendid oversized leather bombers, posh polo shirts, slinky goddess gowns, chisel-toe loafers, metal-heeled stilettos and pristine white jeans. Shop till you drop.
Photography courtesy of Gucci.
