Amanda Wakeley: Ready-to-wear AW16
"She is the contemporary warrior
Christopher Kane: Ready-to-wear AW16
"There is an idea of beauty expired this season. But how that dead and thrown away beauty often looks better than when it was supposedly alive". There's a sense of jumble sale scouring, bag lady eccentric to Christopher Kane's AW16
Burberry: Ready-to-wear AW16
Think of Burberry as Palm Springs meets Harold and Maude. A sort of relaxed, ever so slightly eccentric pared down sixties vibe. Short t-shirt dresses with pleated skirts came in shimmering metallic brocades in a rainbow of peacock hues worn
Antonio Berardi: Ready-to-wear AW16
Remember Janet Jackson's Rhythm Nation? Her backed by that army of dancers in tightly fitted, sharp shouldered, double breasted army inspired black? Well, Antonio Berardi was that. But rather than leather it came in suiting fabric, Italian macrame, delicate chantilly
Joseph: Ready-to-wear AW16
There's something ever so slightly feral about Joseph this season. An underlying ferocity. Sort of like a Kate Bush song in clothing form. Which might have something to do with the hair, but it might also have something to do
Peter Pilotto: Ready-to-wear AW16
There's mention in the press notes of Nordic symbolism. A frosty thread of it even. And to be honest this did feel rather frosty. The Peter Pilotto lady is a cool lady. To put it in Nordic terms, she is
Pringle of Scotland: Ready-to-wear AW16
A new season, a new designer. For her Pringle of Scotland debut, Fran Stringer, the new womenswear design director, "wanted to find a way of celebrating the brand's history and embracing its heritage, that was relevant to the way women
Erdem: Ready-to-wear AW16
Erdem harked back to the golden age of glamour this season, to the heyday of Bette Davies, even opening with a soundtrack of one of her many monologues from All About Eve. Set against a backdrop of a faded mansion
Roksanda: Ready-to-wear AW16
You know those harlequin marionettes, that slightly sad clown? Well, Roksanda was kind of like that, but through a prism of 70's occult. There was a slight mystical, almost witchy feel to this in the star and moon prints and
Belstaff: Ready-to-wear AW16
This season Belstaff, and we'll refer to the press notes here, has "turned its attention to great polar expeditions. Inspired by renowned female pioneers
Alexander McQueen: Ready-to-wear AW16
The best way to describe Alexander McQueen's return to the London Fashion Week schedule would be fairytale sex dripping in butterflies and trimmed in marabou. There was a strong sexual undertone to this, but it was romantic, not aggressive. Delicate
Paul Smith: Ready-to-wear AW16
For his latest collection Paul Smith has chosen to look to his youth. Hence the choice of location, the Royal College of Physicians, designed by Sir Denys Lasdun in 1964, a reflection of the modern architecture that inspired him in
Vivienne Westwood: Ready-to-wear AW16
You can't have a Vivienne Westwood show without a slogan, and so, without further ado, "intellectuals unite. We have no choice between a green economy and mass extinction". To be honest, we have no idea about these things, but here,
Topshop Unique: Ready-to-wear AW16
There's something about the opening strains of the Rolling Stones Gimmie Shelter that always makes you think of a gritty New York side street from a Martin Scorsese film. And at Topshop Unique clothes lived up to the image. Cropped and
Mary Katrantzou: Ready-to-wear AW16
It opened with Dolly Parton. Both musically and in terms of the fashions. Its possible that the Dolly reference may not have been as apparent without the sound of Dolly, but either way, this was Dolly. Dolly on crack. According