February 21, 2023 |
It’s quackers. After Daniel Lee’s much anticipated debut at Burberry, everyone’s talking about ducks. Duck prints, duck hats, duck T-shirts. Lee has made them fashionable alongside supersize versions of the famous Burberry check done in zingy tomato ketchup or Donald Duck yellow. Add oversized fake fur trapper hats and chunky climbing boots cropped wellies and sheepskin thigh highs which came in rounded cartoonish proportions. The mood playful and youthful. From TikTok to the terraces, this is a Burberry collection people will have fun with.
The audience, (including Stormzy, Jodie Comer and Christopher Bailey) warmed by hot toddies, sat on bales of check blankets, in Burberry’s vast show tent (a tribute to the tents used by 19th Centiry Burberry clad explorers). “The brand is about functionality,” said Lee and coats were key. He sent out serious lust items. The first look – a dark green oversized raincoat with a fake fur collar had many making mental add-to-cart notes. Cosy was a watch word with models wearing plush dressing gown coats printed with English roses and carrying hot water bottles (with Burberry check covers.) There were enveloping blanket coats, deconstructed car coats and zip through parkas worn with matching trousers – the closest Lee got to a ‘suit’. Punkish kilts and a T-shirt daubed with the slogan “The Winds of Change” spoke to the non-conformist spirit of British fashion, whist a dress daubed with the brand’s famous equestrian knight logo kept the Burberry heritage in the mix.
The bags, like the amped-up shoes were sturdy and functional but had plenty of fashion fizz. The messenger bags, satchels and saddle bags are a world away from the ladylike styles the brand had done in previous seasons. Lee clearly has a new generation of Burberry fans in his sights. His debut fizzed with youth and was designed to be worn out and about, every day. See it in the wild (or down the park) in September.
Photography courtesy of Burberry.
