Bianca Saunders’ AW25 collection, Dichotomy, is a bold exploration of movement through the lens of contrast. The London-based designer plays masterfully with paradox, building her narrative around the tension between freedom and constraint, stillness and fluidity, offering a collection that is as refined as it is daring.
Dichotomy celebrated duality in every respect. Soft alpaca knits were juxtaposed with water-repellent nylons and crushed textures, while bold accessories, including padded knot bags and square-toe pastel shoes, were paired with classic tailoring, adding a functional flair to more traditional looks.
Inspired by archival footage of male Jamaican dancers, this collection’s Paris presentation transformed the runway into a stage for fluid, unconventional motion, with models gliding across the stage in choreographed twists and turns.
Saunders’s partnership with multidisciplinary artist, Shanti Bell, this season, added another layer of subversion to this collection. Her immersive set design further underscored themes of movement and non-conformity, with weighted materials and sculptural elements tethered to the models, creating a striking interplay between their bodies, the clothing and the space. Twisted inseams and bonded fabrics in the collection evoked a sense of deliberate deconstruction, also echoing the influence of late modernist artist Steven Parrino.
The reimagining of Saunders’s signature silhouettes in this collection again showed an attempt to push boundaries. Her oversized, bow-legged Manner trousers and Y-neck long-sleeve shirts appeared in bold pinks and dynamic, geometric patterns. It provided profound evidence for the innovative and creative capacity of menswear when a designer dares to go beyond its limitations.
Photography courtesy of Bianca Saunders.
