October 3, 2026 |
“More simplicity, more clarity. Clarity of silhouette,” said Daniel Roseberry of his SS27 Schiaparelli show which majored in black dresses, sculpted to the body. Each executed with precision and personality.
The storied couture house is building up its ready-to-wear which Roseberry debuted in 2023. In seasons past, its skewed decorative with jewellery-like buttons, thematic styling and lavish embroideries. But this season – one of Roseberry’s strongest – the designer stripped it all back to silhouette.
The audience sat at cafe tables and sipped champagne, as Roseberry sent out a slew of pin-sharp cocktail dresses. There, moulded bodices defined hourglass silhouettes, peplums jutted, décolleté was revealed and concealed. How much leg is too much?
The hand of the couture atelier was never far away. The silhouettes were precision cut, and many looks could only be achieved with artisanal excellence. The trompe l’oeil cocktail dresses which offered the illusion of barely covered nakedness and Jessica Rabbit’s impossible physique. When she wasn’t at the cocktail party, the Schiaparelli woman was glamming in a crochet cutaway dress or posing on a leather bow buster. The designer says he doesn’t need an imaginary muse. His customer is all the inspiration he needs.
“What we show is what we produce, is what she buys, is what she wears.” Having a direct line to the client has helped focus Roseberry’s eye. “People ask what’s the concept? She’s the concept,” he said of his customer. “It’s all about her.” He described it as “ready to wear on our terms.” Delivered with a sense of occasion and a sense of luxury from a house that plays the fashion game differently. “It’s an amazing time to be at Schiaparelli. It’s a smaller house but I feel like the voice is so big.”
Photography courtesy of Schiaparelli.
