August 10, 2026 |
The beginning of August can only mean one thing: the fashion industry is returning once again to the bike capital of the world, Copenhagen, for the SS27 edition of CPHFW. What was once a relatively unheard-of pitstop in the fashion calendar has, over its 20 year history, grown from strength to strength. This season saw 36 shows and presentations spread across a highly curated week, with the likes of Caro Editions, Stem and Baum und Pferdgarten alongside international offerings from Zalando’s Visionary Award winner Institution and Collina Strada’s Copenhagen debut. Heavy hitters including Marimekko, By Malene Birger and Stine Goya also returned to showcase their latest designs. As ever, there was plenty to keep us busy. And with the week backdropped by gorgeous Danish weather, there may even have been some cheeky swimming along the way. Here are some of the key moments from a jam-packed week.
THE LACE
At OpéraSport, lace was one of the defining elements of the collection, appearing across dresses, tops and layered looks, with a lace-panelled dress opening the show. At The Garment, crisp shirting, sculptural dresses and fluid tailoring were softened with antique-inspired lace and heirloom embroidery. Mr Larkin and Paolina Russo brought a welcome injection of colour to the trend. This can sometimes be something that lacks at CPHFW, but certainly not when these two are around. Studio Constance also joined in on the fun, introducing laser-cut lace to the mix and proving just how versatile the fabric can be. But lace didn’t stop at the runway. It spilled out onto the streets too, with showgoers embracing the look from head-to-toe. Lace headscarves, hair pieces, trimmed shorts – you name it, someone was wearing it.
From left: OpéraSport, Mr Larkin, Paolina Russo, Studio Constance
THE PERFORMANCES
What would take a fashion show to the next level? A live performance, obviously. And this season, there was no shortage of them. Paolina Russo kicked things off with a battle-of-the-bands-style performance during its show, with Copenhagen-based group Haloplus+ going head-to-head with Grace Ives. The two performed back-to-back while models and skateboarders moved through the space, making the performance feel as much a part of the show as the clothes themselves. Then came Nicklas Skovgaard, who took the idea of a live soundtrack one step further by creating an entirely new girl group: The Skovgaardettes. Inspired by the girl groups of the 1960s, the newly formed band opened the show in true style, arriving in a classic car before taking to the stage to soundtrack the collection.
And it wasn’t just singers making an appearance. At Anne Sofie Madsen, internationally acclaimed Danish recorder virtuoso Michala Petri provided the soundtrack. Beginning her performance by walking through the rooms of the showspace, Petri helped set the scene before the collection was even revealed, making the performance an integral part of the presentation rather than simply a soundtrack.
From left: Nicklas Skovgaard, Anne Sofie Madsen
The return of Mfpen
The highly anticipated return of Mfpen to the CPHFW schedule was well worth the wait. January 2024 marked the last time the Copenhagen label held a catwalk show during fashion week, so its return for its 10-year anniversary was always going to be a moment. Held inside the brand’s office and atelier, the intimate show brought together editors and friends of the brand. What they were presented with was a collection that disrupted the clean-cut menswear aesthetic Copenhagen has become known for. Here, flaws and imperfections weren’t something to hide, but something to celebrate. Creased wool shorts, denim with inside-out seams, silk shirts marked with coffee stains and mini skirts with exposed lining all formed part of the collection. After 10 years, signs of age and past mistakes have become an integral part of Mfpen’s design language. It was a welcome return to the schedule. Hopefully, we won’t have to wait quite so long to see them back on the catwalk again.
The Collina Strada Guest Showcase
Collina Strada was announced as the brand who would assume the international guest slot back in May to huge fanfare, and the highly-anticipated show was a flair-filled affair. Bringing its unmistakable sense of controlled chaos straight from New York to Copenhagen, the brand felt right at home. On a windy day down by the Danish harbour, ethereal dresses made from cream-coloured chiffon and tulle opened the show, with models blanketed in glitter and tinsel, giving the collection a playful, party-ready edge. Sustainability, naturally, remained at the heart of it. Only deadstock materials left over from the brand’s studio were used to create the collection, with fabric manipulation forming the foundation. Pleating, gathering, twisting, layering and patchworking transformed existing materials into something entirely new. The highlight, though? A sequin bralet paired with hugely exaggerated cargo shorts. Not a want, but a need.
The Collabs
The power of collaboration is still very much alive, and it was particularly evident this season. New kids on the block O.Files unveiled their latest collaboration with Adidas, taking the classic BW Army trainer and giving it a hand-pleated cream leather twist. Their signature origami detailing was layered over the top, transforming an instantly recognisable silhouette into something distinctly O.Files. Adidas also lent its signature look to Zalando’s former Visionary Award winner Iamisigo. Designer Bubu Ogisi presented an installation titled The Deconstruction Table, where Adidas pieces were taken apart and transformed using the traditional African craft techniques for which Ogisi is known. Some of the resulting pieces were then incorporated into the brand’s official presentation. Anne Sofie Madsen also teamed up with Nike, introducing a series of T-shirts developed exclusively for the show. Staple Nike styles were reworked, with original text layered over the top, while others were transformed through the simple power of layering.
For Mfpen’s latest collection, meanwhile, the brand partnered with New Balance to reinterpret its signature Made in the USA 992 in a deliberately imperfect iteration. Debuting on the catwalk, the trainers were designed to complement the label’s deliberately imperfect silhouettes – and they did just that. New Balance also stepped away from the runway, partnering with Frederic Bille Brahe‘s well-known neighbourhood café, Atelier September, for a week-long residency showcasing its newest style, the 204V. Rather than making a loud statement, the sneaker was seamlessly integrated into the space, appearing as though it had been there all along.
From left: O.files, Iamisigo
Top image: photography by James Cochrane of Anne Sofie Madsen SS27.
