March 3, 2026 |
At Vaquera AW26, the instruction was “Hold on tightly, let go lightly.” In practice, that meant a bride stomping out in a dramatic sideways oval of a dress – more off-kilter sculpture than saccharine fantasy – perched on gogo pumps and topped with a prim little pillbox. Marriage, but make it mildly unhinged.
What followed was a parade of pumped-up geometry. Square tops stuck out from the body with tiny arm slits, triangle bras hovered like warning signs, rectangle dresses marched past with all the subtlety of a moving box. Silks and leather held their shape, melton peacoats went boxy and blunt, furry shoulders exaggerated everything further. Even the colossal cloches felt cartoonishly proportioned. It was strict in black and white, then suddenly not – jolts of electric pink, acid yellow and a flash of highlighter green – including a merkin, or dye job, hard to tell but impossible to ignore.
Skin was everywhere. Knickers out, thongs riding low, zips teasing open over hips and breasts. Sexy, yes, but with a wink – glam rock rather than bombshell.
The masks, netted in sequins and tied with baby pink bows, instantly brought Jason Voorhees to mind, especially set against faces painted chalk white. One look paired a belted tutu with gogo boots, another a square feathered top with barely-there underwear, each model clutching a tiny vintage coin purse as if it were priceless.
Vaquera thrives in that sweet spot between polish and chaos. AW26 felt exaggerated, playful and knowingly warped – a wardrobe that doesn’t take itself too seriously, but absolutely means it.
Photography courtesy of Vaquera.
