September 11, 2025 |
At Proenza Schouler, a changing of the guard.
Yesterday, the brand showcased its first collection following the exit of its founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. The design duo are busy heading up Loewe, where they will unveil their debut offering for the house during the Paris shows next month. In New York, Rachel Scott has taken the reigns. The Diotima founder was recently unveiled as Proenza’s new creative director, with her official debut due to take place next February.
Her contribution to the label’s SS26 collection was on a collaboration level with its in-house atelier; a first taste of what’s to come. And how delicious that taste was. Scott cleverly updated signature Proenza silhouettes, bringing textural flair to seriously great pieces. “The act of evolution demands a soft undoing, a willingness to be unmade in order to change,” read the show notes, a notion expressed via asymetrical skirts and T shirts in a glossy coated cotton that peeled away into cut-out florals, or burning palm tree motifs that danced along elegantly draped frocks. Elsewhere, tailoring was cut oversized without looking overly relaxed, created using a reversed Jacquard where threads were left purposefully exposed. Such details meant these clothes shone without ever feeling fussy. A solid first step from Scott, who continues to prove herself as one of New York’s most exciting talents.
Photography courtesy of Proenza Schouler.
