September 26, 2024 |
Courrèges showcased a sleek yet daring SS25 collection in Paris on Wednesday morning. Inspired by the Möbius band, models paraded around a circular, ocean-like pool, donning structured, monochrome garments while a remix of ‘Born Slippy’ by Underworld played in the background.
Boxy silhouettes, silk tailoring and buttery leather ensembles dominated the minimalist white runway. Nicolas Di Felice once again perfected the cross between inventive detailing and wearable shape, blending space-age, cape-like hoods with sophisticated, capsule shirts. The architecture of a 1962 haute couture cape was his starting point.
The Belgian-born designer also paired leather midi dresses with matching straight-leg trousers and layered tailored skirts over leggings. He added front, central pockets to trousers and coats, while oval cutouts accentuated various looks. As the music intensified, daring, rectangular crop tops exposed midriffs, barely covering the cleavage. Black bug-eyed sunglasses and minimalist shoulder bags completed the collection.
Evening wear captured the same fearless yet chic mood. A sheer, off-white dress with a hemline that danced around the body offered a sultry delight, while a black dress embellished with tiny diamonds oozed modern elegance.
Since taking the helm in 2020, Di Felice has revived the once-revolutionary couture house. As artistic director, he transformed Courrèges from a nostalgic, heritage brand into a cult favourite, as seen on Beyoncé during her Renaissance Tour. The SS25 collection marks Di Felice’s return to Courrèges after his stint as guest designer at Jean Paul Gaultier. In June, he led the French brand’s couture show with surprising success, infusing his minimalist aesthetic with storytelling and decorative elements synonymous with couture. Lean, monochromatic silhouettes filled the runway, while face veils, draped fabrics, and corseted bodices exuded sultry sophistication.
To say that Jean Paul Gaultier influenced Di Felice’s SS25 collection would be an understatement. He brought bold textures and luxurious materials to the ready-to-wear, delivering a feast for the eyes.
Photography courtesy of Courrèges.
