March 2, 2023 |
Róisín Pierce is a new vanguard; a democratic Irish designer indebted to cherishing local craft and artisans, surmising the country as an inspirational place for her work. Her poetic take on gruesome histories won her the first ever Chanel Métiers d’Art Prize, made her a 2022 LVMH Prize finalist and got her on the Forbes’ 30 under 30 Europe list within that same year. Now, traversing the history of censorship and control – especially of womankind – with a scrutinising eye on government and the Catholic Church, her AW23 collection takes shape.
Entitled Beware, Beware, it looks at Sylvia Plath’s Lady Lazarus, a fierce examination of death and rebirth, exploring “the fear evoked by a woman sure of her place and intentions” – a woman the world will move to silence. Plath was once hushed by church and state; so was Irish writer Edna O’Brien; both of whom are heard throughout the range. Diaphanous dresses emerge; bittersweet confectionaries enlivened by every stitch, tuck and motif retelling of words formerly silenced.
Pierce only ever works in white, magnifying the material manipulations and textural techniques she’s renowned for. Imbued with sustainable, zero-waste sensibilities, this lovely range was no different. Her frothy, whipped cream frocks sweep into new techniques: ruching, smocking, pintucks, broderie anglaise, floral scalloped crochet and lace crafted by three generations of Irish lacemakers. Traditional Irish crochet sits atop undulating layers of soft, sculptural organza; Irish wildflowers are evoked in three-dimensional floral embroidery. Whole pieces of fabric without a single cut showcase new textile possibilities: think unabridged shrouds, bubble-hem bloomers, cowl neck dresses and boxy blouses. It’s an effervescent expression of women’s liberation, complete with deadstock bows, delicate bridal veils and ruffles. Histories are not brushed aside; instead, Pierce brings them to life.
Photography courtesy of Róisín Pierce.
