February 3, 2023 |
Off-the-scale productions have long defined Marc Jacobs’ catwalk shows. Yet, emerging from the pandemic, the American fashion titan has chosen instead to translate the theatrics into his attention to silhouette. Long, lean, and oversized, he cocoons his models in androgynous, couture-level concoctions, which are exclusively available for custom-order at Bergdorf Goodman. (His stores and website are populated with more accessible basics, often laden in the brand’s monogram, and grunge-inspired pieces from his Gen-Z spin-off, Heaven.)
“With the turn of another season, in our endless search for value, importance and possibilities, it is through these collections that we continue our ever-expanding notions of beauty and craft,” said Jacobs of his latest Runway outing, showed off schedule ahead of New York Fashion Week, which begins next week. Tall and arched in Jacobs’ sky-high Kiki boots, models clutched XXL parkas and swollen overcoats with flicked-up collars tight to their chest – charging side-on, like they had somewhere important to be. They wore quilted dresses, dramatic fake furs, and cargo skirts that jutted in pleasantly awkward directions.
Jacobs credited the collection to “all our heroes past, and, young heroes present”, rounding off his show notes with a quote from Vivienne Westwood. The late designer’s influence could be felt throughout. From the yellow and crimson evening gowns which twisted into elegant, off-kilter formations, to the Mikimoto pearl necklaces and the tufty blonde pixie cuts sported by a slew of the models. It was a fitting tribute from one fashion anarchist to another.
Photography courtesy of Marc Jacobs.
