October 3, 2022 |
Did Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski go to burning a man for inspiration? A desert rave was how she characterised her Hermès SS23 show, her colours – desert rose, warm orange, sand – mimicked the sun rising and setting over sculptural dunes after a night of partying. Her Hermès woman dresses with practical sporty pieces that were ready for any outdoor eventuality. Racer back mini dresses and textured bodycon knits set the tone, as did sporty shorts and leather cagoule capes, with hardware (tent toggle loops and guy rope fastenings) that spoke to the great outdoors.
The Hermès craftwork was plain to see. Crochet tops and dresses were hand-woven, leather disk sequins were individually sewn onto loose tank dresses and the breezy, fully beaded white gowns that closed the show were all embroidered by hand. Elsewhere, the mood was sporty with bandeau cut away bodysuit: worn with leather track pants and gauzy tracksuits which came in tawny, desert sunset shades. Hermès is becoming the house of the cult shoe (remember how obsessed we were with the clogs?) for SS23 the new sandal with the footbed raised onto a metal loop platform. As for the bags, Hermès collector’s antennae will be twitching over a darling new version of the Kelly. Christened the Kelly Elan, it comes in black or vivid orange and sports a matching feather fringe.
Photography courtesy of Hermès.
