March 3, 2016 |
“Raw-core” was the word John Galliano came up with to describe his winter 2016 Margiela collection. And as everyone is looking to the raw, to the code and ideas Margiela originally devised – unfinished hems, anti-luxury fabrics, oversized, undersized, distress and deconstruction – it was a timely reexamining of the codes of the house. But there were also a few Galliano codes in there – ladylike, glamour, a historicism and surrealism. “We have progressed to an innate understanding of the Maison’s design elements and techniques, where traditional order is disturbed with emotion, immediacy, and the effect of a human glitch,” said Maison Margiela, as a collective entity, the way they usually speak. “Our intent was to unleash the desirability of our evolving Margiela wardrobe with full force.” What does that mean on the bod? Exploded intarsia knits, lurexes, platform shoes, great big giant buckled belts, shearling tuxedo stripes and multiple frilly aprons knotted over and under jackets to create a new curvaceous silhouette. And last season’s “5AC” bag came in a multitude of finishes. We liked the “duct-tape” one.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans
