Beefy tweeds, quilted nylons, a acid-yellow and khaki palette, and touch of panne velvet. Those were the unexpected components of today’s 3.1 Phillip Lim show for autumn/winter 2016 – they wound their way around the models’ bodies in myriad convoluted designs, patchworked together, with a feel of GI Jane (the quilted militia parkas) meeting Miss Marple (all the houndstooth tweed). There were great oversized coats, neat boxy jackets and slender trousers, showcasing Lim’s dab hand with tailoring.There were flowers scrambling over stuff too, appliquéd, the inspiration apparently being, in part, Japanese crafts, kimonos, and leisure dressing. This was less lei sue dressing though than pleasure dressing. Women would love to wear these clothes.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans