September 20, 2022 |
For Yuhan Wang, it was a season spent ruminating on flight that brought her SS23 collection into being. In particular, the Central Saint Martins grad looked to apsaras for inspiration – ethereal female beings that inhabit the skies and seas within Hinduism and Buddhist cultures. So, erring on the side of subversion, the romantic designs were like Marie Antoinette-undressed meets Little House on the Prairie if the Ingalls family flew early twentieth century airplanes. Think spliced-up handkerchief patchwork, sweet dove jewellery, frilly nightwear underscored with knee-high floral socks and mesh dresses embroidered with blue birds, donned by a diverse cast of models all sporting lavish teased and tucked up-dos with youthful, rosey cheeks.
Duly dubbed Beyond the Horizon, three trailblazing pilots also informed Wang’s flight of fantasy: Lee Ya-Ching, the first woman to be granted a civil aviation license in China; American Hazel Ying Lee, who flew for the Women Airforce Service Pilots in World War II; and Amelia Earhart, the first woman to fly solo and non-stop across the Atlantic. Their peerless talent, bravery, persistence and courage as they set to the skies, was effortlessly evoked. What resulted were dainty, deconstructed Victorian lingerie pieces paired with tough, helmet-like aviation bonnets and modern WWII AN-6530 goggles. There were parachute bags and utility strap waterproof nylons too, with which Wang managed to mix utilitarian treatments into layers of artisanal lace, pretty pastel silks and romantic chiffon fabrics with ease. To that end, distressed black belts with bold floral buckles cinched in subversive asymmetric skirts and botanical printed leather – her first go at the rigid material – too. A little red, plush, three-dimensional airplane bag also appeared, carried cross-body-style over an ankle-length raw hem summer dress.
Yuhan Wang navigates femininity via delicate drapery that stands for something. In this case, it stands for resilience.
Photography courtesy of Yuhan Wang.
