So many people have been pumping up volumes, strapping up punk homages, wearing out cloth and blurring gender boundaries, it’s easy to think it’s all edgy and new. It’s easy to forget that designers like Yohji Yamamoto were there right at the start, pioneering it all. He referenced a few of those greatest hits today, in down-stuffed suiting and buckled parachute shirts, models in fraying knits and oversized coats with skinny, girlish braids (but also, a lot of the time, beards). It all still looked great.
