Y/Project: Ready-To-Wear AW23

National strikes didn’t halt the fashion pack from congregating inside the Institut Français de la Mode for Glenn Martens’ Y/Project show. It’s the first time the brand has shown on the womenswear schedule since 2020. Between then and now, Martens has reached global acclaim thanks to his denim innovations at the helm of Diesel and his viral guest couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier. His warped, technical brilliance, which first began as a necessity –  strapped for cash, he was once obliged to design in a manner whereby pieces could be worn in a multitude of ways, by “making sure the exact same pieces could come back on the runway twice without people noticing” – has now become his trademark.

Here, rustic-coloured jeans equipped with snap buttons, spilt into swollen denim boots; dresses and tops came printed with mangled limbs pulled from screenshots of porn films; and a slew of flannel shirts, puffer coats and trucker jackets were ripped apart and rebuilt in intricate formations. Most impressive was Martens’ use of shredded denim scraps, which sprouted like arteries across beautiful evening gowns and overcoats with meaty, 1980s shoulders. Sit back and marvel at his brilliance.

Photography courtesy of Y/Project. 


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