September 10, 2022 |
Opening the brilliant Collina Strada show for SS23, Barbie actress Hari Nef stepped out into Brooklyn Greenway, a protected former cemetery-turned-monarch butterfly preserve, wearing a slinky, lace-trimmed slip with the phrase “Got Milkweed?” (the name of the show) bedazzled under the bust. It came layered over blue-yellow tartan wide-legged trousers. Her disposition was absent-minded and dreamy as she frolicked along, pirouetting and moving her arm in twirling gestures like a delicate wing, setting the mood for the show which served as a play on the iconic ‘90s Got Milk? Campaign. As is customary for the NYC based-brand, creative director Hillary Taymour took an environmental approach to designing just as expected, but employed the milkweed citation as a reference to the only plant Monarch butterflies eat to convey her message.
Beside the fluttering influences, there were plaid, corseted ball gowns with exaggerated balloon skirts and puff-sleeved slinky slips with empire waistlines: a kind of romantic-era regality dipped in the outlandish panache of Instagram-famous It-girls like Courtney Trop and Lindsay Vrckovnik. Huge cargos came peppered with hand-drawn doodles, decorated jeans were accessorised with stacks of studded belts and a pair of footwear collabs with Virón and Melissa used upcycled materials to construct ruffled velvet oxfords, chunky silver boots and a wacky puff sandal.
Taymour’s signature playfulness and adoration of the Y2K aesthetic were apparent, but there was also a provocative touch; think micro minis sitting atop frilly asymmetric chiffon dresses and a coral dress clipped to the nipples with metallic floral appliques. Elsewhere, elegant evening wear came filled with lacy frivolity and floral organza, some even had three-dimensional flowers made out of shredded chiffon accentuating the breasts. There were florals for spring too – worn by a cutesy kid who couldn’t have been older than six – groundbreaking. Collina Strada is the star of summer.
Photography courtesy of Collina Strada.
