September 22, 2026 |
Daniel Lee brought whimsy to his SS27 Burberry show, collaborating with the legendary 85 year old print designer Celia Birtwell. She created the floral motifs used throughout which made for a joyful, confident collection that is one of Lee’s best for the house.
Lee hasn’t gone big on collaboration for Burberry but he went all in on Celia. He described Birtwell as “the epitome of British fashion,” and as someone who defined British style in the 1960s and 1970s, when she designed prints for her then husband Ossie Clark (the pair are immortalised in David Hockney‘s painting Mrs and Mrs Clark and Percy). Describing Birtwell’s prints as “incredible” and “timeless”, Lee said, “Whether you wear them today or you wore them in the ’70s, they’re amazing.”
Birtwell’s charming florals were everywhere, from the mimosas, rosebuds and violets embroidered onto pencil skirts, shoes and bags, as well as delicate sprigs applied to georgette trench coats, and rosebuds printed on men’s shirts. Lee didn’t hold back on craft. Even the umbrellas were embroidered with flowers.
As well as florals, Birtwell’s face illustrations appeared on knits and as little discs all over a coat. She also reworked Burberry’s famous check, creating a painterly trellis-like version of it adorned with climbing flowers. Lee said that Birtwell made the check more human. “If you are buying a luxury product it’s not a necessity product. It’s an emotional purchase so it needs to feel human.”
Flowers weren’t the only theme in this jam packed collection. Lee introduced military motifs with epaulettes embroidered, like line drawings, onto the shoulders of trench coats. Utility shirts (covered in floral embroidery of course) and sportswear were also big stories, with lightweight cagoules zipped under jackets for men and women.
Throughout Lee created a patina of lived-in imperfection, from scuffed trainers to crumpled coats faded denim and the sexy scruff Central Cee sagging his way down the runway.
Photography courtesy of Burberry.
