March 1, 2025 |
“Everyone should have a little Versace attitude,” counselled Donatella on her Instagram. Clothes she said, should empower and give strength and confidence. She described her AW25 collection as, “My Versace superheroes,” and leaned in to the codes of the house, “With this collection I am not following any rules only the rules of Versace DNA,” she said.
She turned to the archival baroque prints of Versace homewear – one of the first homeware lines created by a fashion brand – for inspiration. Alongside that she looked at her brother, Gianni Versace’s costume designs for the ballet. Gravity defying crinoline skirts were lined in archival prints. Those same prints appeared on lavish duvet coats whilst quilts from the Versace Home collection were swagged into grand gowns bringing a whole new meaning to comfort dressing.
Donatella sprinkled the collection with many archive references, from the distinctive off-set shoulders on the tailoring – a couture detail which first appeared in the Atelier Versace Autumn-Winter 1997 collection, the final collection done by Gianni before his death. Archive spotters also clocked the embellished pockets of the Autumn/Winter 1991 collection in the fully-studded V-shaped pockets and collars. Another couture show, Atelier Versace Autumn-Winter 1998 from Donatella’s early tenure, provided inspiration for two dresses woven from unravelling silver and gold threads – embroidered with beads, crystals. They embodied the rock ‘n’ royalty sensibility synonymous with the house.
Leather and opulent silk is a classic Versace combination, Donatella delivered on both with vivid, archival print shirts and leather trousers for men and women. It wouldn’t be Versace without chainmail. Donatella patchworked pieces from past collection into lavish new looks. A new V-shaped metal emblem, used on bags belts and as an embellishment was scattered liberally throughout. There was an energy to the whole thing that’s been missing from the most recent catwalks with models strutted and swaggered down a 150m long raised runway, exuding the confidence and sexuality that belongs to this brand.
The show notes reminded the audience of the house philosophy Versace: “Do what you do best, stay true to yourself, and make your mark.” Donatella stayed true.
Photography courtesy of Versace.
