August 24, 2022 |
Ukrainian Independence Day was always going to be an important one; it’s the gratifying day marking the country’s divorce from the Soviet Union, the death of its relentless tyranny and the rebirth of Ukrainian culture. In 2022, August 24 marks 31 years of freedom. Yet, six months on from the start of the Russian invasion and inconceivable fully-fledged war – its indiscriminate blitzkriegs, its commission of barbarous war crimes, the atrocities and horrors of Bucha and Mariupol, its ugliness – the idea of an Independence Day feels like a painfully sharp and bitter pill to swallow. But from the obsidian ashes of tragedy, we’ve seen throughout history that there comes solidarity and fortitude, and today is no different. For half a year Ukraine has suffered the pains of sacrifice and the joys of survival; for 31 years it has stood unified and on its own two feet, and for the future it will fight for its people’s freedom. And its fashion aficionados will, too.
You, like us, have most likely come across dozens of calls to action across social media platforms, whether it’s lobbying for charity donations, offering aid to businesses, or immigration and refugee support. Multi-hyphenate creatives like Artem Pylypenko host a link to the war’s official donation page in their Instagram bio and brands like Frolov and Masha Popova have extensive story highlights saved to their pages with in-depth information on how to help out during such trying times.
So, to celebrate this Ukrainian Independence Day we have selected three native Ukrainian labels that deserve your support.
Masha Popova
Ukrainian-born Masha Popova is the Central Saint Martins alumnus whose angelic aesthetics are adored by the likes of Dua Lipa, Bella Hadid and Billie Eilish. This September, the 31-year-old is showing at London Fashion Week for the first time as one of the week’s most hotly anticipated catwalk debuts.
Popova is beguiling; she has cast her subversive touch and irreverent take on sensuality into the visionary pieces of Maison Margiela and Celine, and with her eponymous brand offers an elevated Y2K aesthetic that particularly plays with the era’s butterfly motifs, delivering delicately winged bra tops and structured asymmetrical vests alongside sleek ultra-low v-wait jeans that ultimately feel carefree and full of youth. Shop here.
Frolov
“Ukrainian in heart, in body, in blood,” states Frolov’s instagram bio. It’s a powerful statement that bleeds into everything the label touches. Made distinct by its highly textural couture-to-wear gowns, itty-bitty party dresses and corsetry that boast intensely intricate detailing, embroidery and crystal ornamentation, the Kyiv-based brand is beautifully feminine, and of course, a favourite of celebs like Doja Cat, Gwen Stefani and Coco Rocha. By combining comfort, freedom, provocation and social responsibility, founder and creative director Ivan Frolov explores LGBTQIA+ culture, BDSM ethics and aesthetics, as well as fetishism.
On the flipside however, an assortment of basics emblazoned with anatomical hearts cast in patriotic blue and yellow not only display Frolov’s versatility but the brand’s commitment to its home: All proceeds from the sale of the heart collection will be donated to the Masha Foundation to support children affected by the war. Shop and donate here.
Artem Pylypenko
Stylist and designer Artem Pylypenko is an emerging 23-year-old designer who under the Ukrainian Martial’s Law has been tethered to the country, unable to vacate since February. However, while developing his brand in the midst of the conflict beyond his walls, he was able to connect with contemporary jewellery brand Hatton Labs and joined the team as a freelance assistant designer. Now, for this Ukrainian Independence Day, they have linked up for a jewellery collection and limited edition T-shirt, captured by photographer Thomas Albdorf, that places the carabiner – a climbing safety tool – at its fore. However, while researching, Pylypenko discovered that the word ‘carbine’ first appeared to name certain firearms. “I found this play between death and life-saving quite paradoxical, some kind of complete ambivalence,” he wrote in the collection notes. “I took the parts of the safety ‘carbine’, the notches from the weapon, and tried to derive a new shape that would resemble the number 8 (how long the war in eastern Ukraine lasts).”
Pylypenko continues: “I want this collaboration to be the light at the end of the tunnel,” and in many ways it really does feel like a glimmer of hope. All proceeds from the streamlined collection will go directly to Ukraine’s largest children’s hospital, Ohmatdyt. Shop and donate here.
Photography courtesy of Masha Popova, Frolov and Hatton Labs.
