For every woman, Supriya Lele’s latest offering was a body-celebrating selection, channelling the mood of a free-spirited motorbike girl, with a tough, confident femininity.
Proceedings kicked off with a Kingfisher blue mini dress, twisted, layered and draped, paired with low kitten heels that resembled classic-cotton socks and a single opaque, black stocking. Falling into the step close behind, models stomped with a certain ferocity, clad in sarong mini-skirts with apron pockets or crafted from lilac lace, while halterneck dresses, keyhole bralettes and crop-tops that brought the heat. Mesh materials, silk satin, jersey, and leather fashioned Lele’s signature nineties and noughties-inflected silhouettes, slovenly tied and sporadically fastened for a playful take on sensuality.
Coming to the fore of the collection, an electric blue, hooded curtain-reveal cardigan felt oracular. It came paired with a brand-new interpretation of Lele’s V-line, low-waisted trousers – this time a baggy silk cargo style pant redefines tomboy tropes. There was also a shapeless leather coat that featured a low-slung belt stretching across the bum and a high funnel neck – it was a uniquely ’00s silhouette elevated for the 2020s.
Lele effectively drew colours and silhouettes from men’s sportswear, riffing on vintage sports and ski jackets that the designer wore in her youth. Vivid indigo blue, inky black and shiny coffee brown added an overarching moodiness while in contrast, canary yellow, rose pink, cherry red felt hedonistic.
The buzzy London-based label played with proportion, infecting its idiosyncratic twisted shapes with a tough attitude and striking sex appeal, subtly revealing undergarments, nips and snippets of lace.
A welcome surprise to everyone in attendance, British icon Victoria Beckham was escorted to the frow by four security guards for the slinky show – we see you Vicky B – apparently Posh Spice supports Supriya – as she should! So put that pedal to the metal and hit the va-va-vroom, ’cause Lele’s latest is speeding into the new season.
Photography courtesy of Supriya Lele.