October 1, 2024 |
“Save What You Love” was Stella McCartney’s message, and what she loves is birds. Her collection was an ode to them and, with 50 per cent of species in decline, also a call to halt the use of feathers in fashion.
“What makes a Stella girl is the fact that we see things from a different perspective,” she says of the activism at the heart of her brand. “I’d been thinking about the billions of birds that get killed for the fashion industry. For me they represent freedom, purity and peace,” said the designer who, in response, sought to create a collection infused with a lightness of touch, weightlessness and effortless femininity. With Prince’s ‘When Doves Cry’ on the soundtrack, McCartney sent out her signature slouchy tailoring, worked in loose, easy layers. Gauzy semi-sheer draped dresses came as billowing maxis or barely there minis. Dove prints fluttered over silk tops and draped dresses. Delicate lingerie looks brought a fragile femininity to the all-lace evening gowns.
It wasn’t all about birds. She also debuted the vegan leather Ryder bag with, its gently dipping top line inspired by the curve of a horse’s back.
As always McCartney used innovative sustainable materials, a practice that has made her a leading light on future-proofing fashion and highlighting a better way forward.
She was most proud of the cloud-like knitted jackets – Stella’s alternative to maribou feather chubbies – which were made from nylon yarn recycled from plastic bottles. The thought, research and care that goes into every McCartney product is impressive. Heavy bird-shaped gold pendants were made in collaboration with 886 The Royal Mint, which uses sustainable recycled gold, extracted from tech waste. It’s estimated that seven per cent of the world’s gold is in tech devices in landfill, but McCartney showed how it can be turned into catwalk treasure.
Photography courtesy of Stella McCartney.
