Simone Rocha is a London highlight. Her pearl drop world is so beautifully constructed. But for SS25 she took us to The Old Bailey and shifted the dial. Parking her signature poufy volumes the designer worked a silhouette closer to the body. Although the shapes were leaner, Rocha lost none of her magic, working with sheer layers, lingerie detailing, dazzling carnation embroidery and crystals embellishments to sumptuous effect.
Dancers Michael Clark and Pina Bausch were her inspirations for this co-ed show, as she explored the idea of dancers off stage, between performances. Striking tutu skirts jutted beneath cut-away knits and long coats as if a ballerina had popped out for a quick fag before curtain call. Leotard-style body suits came with flashes of tulle at the hips. Both boys and girls wore satin ballet pumps. Rocha is not a minimalist. Models wore crystal clips in their hair and and long sparking strands hung from their ears.
Dark denim came studded with crystal embellishment. Her signature pearlescent egg purse has hatched into a darling little duck. Another clutch bag came as a froth of tutu frills. The details were as dazzling as they were delightful. Silk knickers and suiting came with crystal carnation embroidery, silk flowers embellished necklines or were trapped between sheer layers. Simone’s new look has plenty of appeal.
Photography by Christina Fragkou.