Erdem: Ready-to-Wear SS18
This season Erdem imagined the Queen in New York’s Harlem - one of those “what if?” situations prompted by the designer discovering a snap of HRH with legendary jazz musician Duke Ellington in the 1950s. Ellington would end up writing
Pringle of Scotland: Ready-to-Wear SS18
Knitwear. We’re suddenly very taken with it again after Pringle of Scotland’s outing yesterday. Particularly fascinating is the concept of knitwear for hot weather - as designer Fran Stringer assured us, it's “a thing.” Proof was the collection. This was
Ashish: Ready-to-Wear SS18
Black is not the first colour you think of when you think of Ashish, if anything, it's the last. But given that the Martin Luther King Jr quote: “only in the darkness can you see the stars” was the only thing
Marques’Almeida: Ready-to-Wear SS18
The Marques’Almeida girl is, like Chaka Khan, every woman. Maybe not every single woman, that’s probably best left to Chaka herself, but certainly a lot of them - in spirit, at least. Lovely Marta and Paulo talked about this thread
Nicopanda: Ready-to-Wear SS18
See now, buy now? Pssh. For their first London show, Nicopanda took it to the next level. Teaming up with Amazon Fashion, Nicola Formichetti allowed viewers to literally place orders for pieces as they walked the runway, which would then
Christopher Kane: Ready-to-Wear SS18
House coats and slip dresses and something approaching a peignoir: welcome young man to the world of suburban sex clubs and soft core fetish. Step inside Christopher Kane's saucy world for spring where shiny ciré skirts are worn with satin blouses
Roksanda: Ready-to-Wear SS18
Colour so good it’s edible. You want to eat it. Candy shop-shades of cerise and red, yellow and electric blue sit alongside a palette cleanser of pure, bridal white. Roksanda always feels super polished. These clothes look expensive, glam, and
Antonio Berardi: Ready-to-Wear SS18
Topical *and* political: the show notes left on our seats at the Antonio Berardi show were simple and to the point: a quote from Roosevelt reminding us all that we, too, are all immigrants somewhere in our family timeline. And this was
Chalayan: Ready-to-Wear SS18
More avant garde adventures with Mr Chalayan. Bit of a lie actually, the first half of the show was actually quite "normal" for the cerebral designer - normal in the sense it was real clothes, a study in brilliantly cut
Anya Hindmarch: Ready-to-Wear SS18
The set at Anya Hindmarch was a house. Notes called it a symphony to suburbia. Having come from suburbia, I can attest that this is actually very much unlike suburbia, which is entirely depressing, and this was not depressing at
Margaret Howell: Ready-to-Wear SS18
More riffs on Britishness at Margaret Howell. It's the fashion equivalent of a warm bath - you always sort of know what you're getting, but it doesn’t make it any less pleasurable. Plenty to like here. A nice silhouette. There
Emporio Armani: Ready-to-Wear SS18
Stream these films immediately: Mystic Pizza, Sixteen Candles, Pretty in Pink. Tragi-excellent American high school films celebrating simpler times, where girls dressed up in shiny hi-tops and bombers to flirt with boys in sporty cars. More of this later. Mr Giorgio Armani is
Topshop: Ready-to-wear SS18
In no particular order: Soho, nightclub, marabou, bustier, supermodel. So far, so us. Now, we could delve deeper into the inspiration - Corinne Day, Madame Jojo's, Revuebar, the days before Instagram - but, quite frankly, all you really need to
Versus Versace: Ready-to-Wear SS18
A distinct whiff of cowboy at Versus Versace today. Cowboys at the beach? How else to explain the appearance of a speedo with “VERSUS” spelt out in diamante on the behind? If anyone can get away with it, it’s Donatella. The lady