Hermès: Ready-to-wear AW17
Was our handsome Executive Fashion Director Garth Spencer the unlikely inspiration for Hermès' AW17 offering today? Anybody who knows him will also know that he is a proponent of a knee-high lace-up boot, a fact that has, on occasion, terrified
Giambattista Valli: Ready-to-wear AW17
Hello, daddy. Hello, mom. I'm your ch-ch-ch-cherry bomb! Or so sung the Giambattista Valli ladies (in our heads) this morning, not because they bore any resemblance to Joan Jett, apart from maybe the hair, which had a faint greasiness to it, rather
Sacai: Ready-to-wear AW17
The idea of appropriating one’s nighttime garments as daywear does hold a strong appeal - there’s something quite louche about wearing what one could have, potentially, worn to bed the night before. Not that, we should note, this is something
Isabel Marant: Ready-to-wear AW17
Getting our disco on. Sparkle and shine. And a whole cavalcade of gentleman's coats, wide pants and straight-up no nonsense jackets. Amber Valletta. Carolyn Murphy. A slew of cool crafty quilted velvet. Embroidered third eyes on the back of jackets
Valentino: Ready-to-wear AW17
Could we say that Valentino's ladies were walking in Memphis this season? By which we are not referring to the Tennessean city, rather the Italian design collective, the Memphis Group, known for those swirly colourful patterns, which this season found
Céline: Ready-to-wear AW17
Hundreds of stage lights suspended, bleachers for the audience, a translucent scrim giving some shadowy backstage action for us all to watch pre-show. There was a thrumming one-note organ, a giant perspective. Shadows of girls, hair, makeup. Voices, laughter, calling
Balenciaga: Ready-to-wear AW17
Did Demna have a bit of a thing about items you step on this season? Things that tend to lie underfoot? First hint was that carpet, which you’ve probably seen already, unless on some sort of self-imposed media blackout, printed
Sonia Rykiel: Ready-to-wear AW17
Seem to be having a bit of a marabou moment this season. Feathers bloody everywhere. Not to suggest that we're adverse - quite the opposite - we're all for a garment that allows us to live out Barbara Cartland-based-boudoir fantasies, involving,
Comme des Garçons: Ready-to-wear AW17
As you may already know, Rei Kawakubo, and thus Comme des Garçons, are the subject of this year’s Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute exhibition. Which, in turn, means that they will be the theme of this year’s Met Gala. So what
Andreas Kronthaler For Vivienne Westwood: Ready-to-wear AW17
Could we possibly love Dame Viv any more than the near fanatic levels that we already do? Well, as it would go, yes. Reached heart palp heights this afternoon when, at the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood AW17 show, she
Elie Saab: Ready-to-wear AW17
This was inspired by Giselle. The ballet, not the supermodel. Which is a bit of a dark and involves a group of dead virgin women who dance men to death. Whether or not that was the exact reference point Mr Saab was
Acne Studios: Ready-to-wear AW17
Was Canadian chanteuse Celine Dion on the mood board for Acne Studios AW17? More specifically, Celine Dion at the 1999 Academy Awards? Because there was a back-to-front blazer moment here. Which was not, perhaps unfortunately, in the form of a
Mugler: Ready-to-wear AW17
It was all about the shoulder at Mugler. Isn’t it always about the shoulder at Mugler? No bad thing - what quite says power woman like a large-shouldered garment? And Mugler's women have always have been nothing if not if
Haider Ackermann: Ready-to-wear AW17
Somewhat distracted here by the sight of Nicki Minaj’s left breast, which was very much out, and wearing, for modesty's sake, a tiny metal hat. A look possibly best reserved for after 6pm, but who are we to judge? And
Junya Watanabe: Ready-to-wear AW17
This is making us very happy. Not that Junya Watanabe doesn’t always make us happy, in this way that is always surprising for such an early hour on a Saturday morning, but today, even more so. As Sophia declared, post