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The bias-cut slip dress is a foundation of the entire John Galliano label: Bill Gaytten, the house of Galliano’s creative director, is a technical wizard. So this collection returned to what both he and the house do best, which is

With models whizzing around a wooden maze in central Paris, Riccardo Tisci recreated all the drama and magic of Ancient Egypt for Givenchy. He loves a bit of mystery, does Tisci. This season, he fused Egyptian culture with sixties psychedelia

A couture attitude - that was the notion of Demna Gvasalia’s Balenciaga debut. It wasn’t couture, of course - it was, in fact, decidedly ready-to-wear, rooted in the wardrobe of everyday (parkas, suiting, fur-collared belted coats) but given a sense

It’s all about sex at Nina Ricci. I mean, it wasn’t always, but Guillaume Henry has fixated on seduction as emblematic of the Nina Ricci house, and hence he’s dressing women in full-on on-the-pull gear, in slithery lingerie slips and

D-rings and tyre soles and jack-wires and utilitarian stuff was all over the place at Acne Studios. It reminded us a bit of that CBBC show “Bits”, where they’d make, say, a chocolate factory from a load of old boxes

Eighteenth century punks - in pink - were the inspiration for Rei Kawakubo's Comme des Garçons this time around. They were both inspired and inspiring, with outfits piled up with panniers and frills and rococo floral patterns, ruffled and flounced to within

Vivienne Westwood called her latest collection “Sexercise.” Yikes! But actually, it wasn’t Westwood herself - she’s now handed the reins of the business over to her supremely talented husband Andreas Kronthaler, her parter for almost three decades in life and

Gorgeous gypsies and rock-star chic. These were the driving forces behind Elie Saab, a collection of signature lace and foliate colours reworked for an utterly contemporary woman. Music pumped out live as the models took their turns, like a terribly

Bobby Vinton once crooned about someone wearing blue velvet - and while we didn’t spot any blue in Haider Ackermann’s winter show, this fuzzy-wuzzy offering had pretty much every other colour velour under the sun. Maybe Ackermann was attracted to

“Hyper Construction Dress” was the theme of the Junya Watanabe show, with models dressed in kooky cloth constructions and an origami how-to pamphlet the invite. Folding, pleating, wrapping and constructing dresses was all par for the course: Watanabe is a

Gird ye loins Tenners and prepare thineselves - Dame Viv will show her first collection under her Gold Label's brand new guise today - Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood. At 3pm GMT. And, generous as ever, we are handing it to you on a

The mood of late seventies Paris is infectious right now - maybe because it harks back to a time of unbridled hedonism never since seen, and an exciting, bubbling-up fashion scene. Isabel Marant referenced the era in her latest show,

Yohji Yamamoto didn't title his collection "Subtraction", but it was the one word he offered afterwards, backstage, to describe his clothes. You could see a few subtraction a in the show, or lapels being sliced off coats, sometimes of the

Perfect day. It played on the soundtrack, and was printed across the backs of Jun Takahashi's Undercover collection. What makes a perfect day? Puffy prom dresses cross-bred with perfecto jackets, crowned with golden branches. Who knows what’s on? Not us.